Working-quarter east of the Duomo, home to Da Michele's mother pizzeria and the Porta Nolana morning fish market that runs from 05:00.
Da Michele in Naples' Forcella has baked margherita and marinara since 1870, the city's defining pizza counter. Kitchen leans neapolitan pizza.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara
Order: Pizza margherita and pizza marinara, the only two on the carte for 150 years.
Tip: Take a numbered ticket from the door and wait outside. The classic margherita is 5 euros 50; cash preferred.
Da Michele in Naples' Forcella has baked margherita and marinara since 1870, the city's defining pizza counter. Kitchen leans neapolitan pizza.
Order: Pizza margherita and pizza marinara, the only two on the carte for 150 years.
Tip: Take a numbered ticket from the door and wait outside. Margherita is 5 euros 50; cash preferred.
Porta Capuana market runs along the medieval city gate between Napoli Centrale and Forcella, a dense street bazaar of produce, spices and cheap household.
Tip: The market runs the full length of Via Sant'Antonio Abate. The produce is the cheapest in the city; bring cash.
Da Michele in Naples' Forcella has baked margherita and marinara since 1870 at under 6 euros. At Via Cesare Sersale 1. Reservations advised.
Try: Pizza margherita
Tip: Take a numbered ticket at the door. Cash only at the counter; the margherita is 5 euros 50.
Vesuvio Roof crowns UNAHOTELS Napoli on Piazza Garibaldi with a wraparound terrace pointed across the city to Vesuvius, with a Neapolitan and Mediterranean.
Tip: Aperitivo from 18:30; the hotel sits next to Napoli Centrale so it works as a stop before a late train. The terrace is the seat to get for the Vesuvius sightline.
Audioteca opened in October 2021 in San Giorgio a Cremano on Naples' eastern edge as Italy's first audiophile bar, with a custom-built Finnish birch column.
Tip: The room is built around the speakers; the sweet spot is centre stage in front of the columns. Open Wednesday through Sunday, programme is vinyl all night.