Day-by-day eating plans for Naples: weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Making a weekend of it

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Day-by-day plans

Naples pizza weekend: the essential two days

  • ★ 4.7
  • 2 days
  • First-time visitor, two days

Two days of pastry counters, the pizzerias of Via dei Tribunali, a morning at the Pignasecca market and dinners built around ragù and salumi.

  1. Day 1Day one: pastry, pizza and the Sanità

    Morning
    Start at Pasticceria Attanasio on Vico Ferrovia, behind Napoli Centrale. Dissapore reports sfogliatella riccia and frolla, babà and pastiera at its counter, where you take a numbered ticket and wait. Then walk to Caffè Mexico on Piazza Dante for an espresso and on to Via dei Tribunali.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale 1, where Michelin says diners take numbered tickets and are called in turn. Then walk north to the Sanità for Pasticceria Poppella, Via Arena alla Sanità 28/29, and its fiocco di neve, a soft brioche filled with milk cream, cream and vanilla. Concettina ai Tre Santi, Via Arena della Sanità 7 Bis, is open Sunday to Thursday 10:30 to 23:30 and Friday and Saturday 11:00 to 23:30; it also serves a nine-course blind tasting menu.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Barril, Via Giuseppe Fiorelli 11, a garden bar, vineria and American bar open Tuesday to Sunday. Dinner at Tandem Ragu, Via Paladino 51, the restaurant dedicated to ragù napoletano and the Sunday genovese.

    StopsL'Antica Pizzeria da MicheleConcettina ai Tre SantiBarrilTandem Ragu

  2. Day 2Day two: market, Via dei Tribunali, babà and Mergellina

    Morning
    Walk to Mercato della Pignasecca, where Gambero Rosso describes stalls selling fish, fresh vegetables, fruit, cold cuts, dairy and cheeses. Then go to Gino Sorbillo, Via Tribunali 32, the historic site; it accepts no reservations.
    Afternoon
    Walk through the old centre to Scaturchio on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore for a babà and a coffee; a Vesuvius-shaped babà has been in its windows since 1994. Then go on to Mergellina and Chalet Ciro on Via Caracciolo, open from 06:45 to 03:00 (Saturday until 04:00).
    Evening
    Dinner at Salumeria Upnea, Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli 35, a Salumeria Mediterranea open daily 12:15 to 16:00 and 19:15 to 23:45. Or pizza at Pizzeria Starita a Materdei, Via Materdei 27/28, whose site says its story begins in 1901.

    StopsGino e Toto SorbilloScaturchioSalumeria UpneaPizzeria Starita a Materdei

Naples on a budget: street food and trattoria meals

  • ★ 4.5
  • 2 days
  • Budget traveller, two days

Two days of counters, markets and fried street food, with ragù at Tandem, a trattoria dinner at Nennella and a lunch in the Vomero.

  1. Day 1Day one: pastry, pizza a portafoglio and ragù

    Morning
    Breakfast at Pasticceria Attanasio on Vico Ferrovia (sfogliatella riccia or frolla, per Dissapore). Walk to Via dei Tribunali and try the pizza a portafoglio at Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo, which calls it the famous wallet pizza, also called a libretto, eaten at the sales counter. Then walk through the stalls of Mercato della Pignasecca.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Tandem Ragu, Via Paladino 51, dedicated to ragù napoletano and the genovese. Then walk north to the Sanità for Pasticceria Poppella, Via Arena alla Sanità 28/29, which has sold taralli 'nzogna e pepe since 1960, and its fiocco di neve.
    Evening
    Dinner at Trattoria Nennella, now at Piazza Carità 22 (it left the Quartieri Spagnoli in 2023). It is closed on Sunday, and its home page says it has served pasta, patate e provola since 1949. Half the seats can be booked online; for the rest, write your name on the waiting list at the door.

    StopsPizzeria di MatteoTandem RaguTrattoria Nennella

  2. Day 2Day two: fried food and a Vomero lunch

    Morning
    Espresso at Caffè Mexico on Piazza Dante. Then walk through Mercato della Pignasecca, where Gambero Rosso singles out the fish cuoppo from the Pescheria Azzurra stall, and on to Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo, whose friggitoria sells frittatine, crocchè, rice balls and the fried pizza.
    Afternoon
    Lunch in the Vomero at Osteria Donna Teresa, Via Michele Kerbaker 58, a small family trattoria that says it has served Neapolitan home cooking since 1913. It is open Monday to Saturday 12:30 to 15:00 and 19:30 to 22:00 and closed Sunday. The quarter is linked to the centre by three funiculars; Castel Sant'Elmo, a medieval fortress, is in the quarter.
    Evening
    Friggitoria Vomero, Via Domenico Cimarosa 44, for fried street food by the cone; Gambero Rosso lists crocchè, arancini, aubergine, polenta, paste cresciute and fried pizzas there.

    StopsPizzeria di MatteoOsteria Donna TeresaFriggitoria Vomero

Naples for the serious eater: three days at the table

  • ★ 4.6
  • 3 days
  • Food-focused traveller, three days

Three days of pastry, pizza, trattoria and tasting-menu dinners, cocktails and wine, with a day at a buffalo farm in Paestum.

  1. Day 1Day one: pastry, the Decumani and a Posillipo dinner

    Morning
    Start at Pasticceria Attanasio on Vico Ferrovia for a sfogliatella; Dissapore reports riccia, frolla, babà and pastiera at the counter.
    Afternoon
    Walk the Decumani. Via dei Tribunali has Gino Sorbillo, which takes no reservations, and Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo at number 94. Take coffee or pastry at Gran Caffè Gambrinus, which faces Piazza Plebiscito and has been a reference point since 1860.
    Evening
    Dinner at Palazzo Petrucci, Via Posillipo 16/C, a Michelin-starred restaurant overlooking the sea at Posillipo, with 36 covers, where Lino Scarallo's cooking centres on tasting menus. Tables are booked through an online form.

    StopsGino e Toto SorbilloPizzeria di MatteoGran Caffè GambrinusPalazzo Petrucci

  2. Day 2Day two: a seafood market, a trattoria lunch and cocktails

    Morning
    Mercato del Pesce di Porta Nolana is a pedestrian market known for seafood, beside Porta Nolana station. Then an espresso at Caffè Mexico.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Mimì alla Ferrovia, Via Alfonso d'Aragona 19, cooking Neapolitan food since 1943; its primi include spaghetti con vongole veraci and candele alla genovese. Tables of one to three guests are seated first come, first served; tables of four to ten book online. Then Concettina ai Tre Santi, Via Arena della Sanità 7 Bis, which offers a nine-course blind tasting menu.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Ex Salumeria - La Bottega del Rum, Via Candelora 1, a cocktail bar whose site speaks of rum, spices and fruit. Dinner at Osteria da Carmela, Via Conte di Ruvo 11/12, which tells of its start in 1967 under Don Vincenzo; the site prints the phone number 081 5499738.

    StopsMimi alla FerroviaConcettina ai Tre SantiEx Salumeria - La Bottega del RumOsteria da Carmela

  3. Day 3Day three: Paestum for buffalo mozzarella, then Naples

    Morning
    Paestum is in the province of Salerno, on the Naples to Salerno to Reggio Calabria railway line. Tenuta Vannulo, an organic farm at Via Galileo Galilei 101, Capaccio Paestum, opens its dairy daily 8:00 to 17:00, its yogurt bar 7:00 to 19:30 and its tasting room 12:00 to 16:00. Guided visits run 9:00 to 12:00, the hours when the mozzarella is made, and must be booked well ahead.
    Afternoon
    Back in Naples, a babà and a coffee at Scaturchio on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore.
    Evening
    Dinner at Salumeria Upnea, Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli 35, open daily until 23:45, or pizza at 50 Kalò di Ciro Salvo on Piazza Sannazaro 201/B.

    StopsScaturchioSalumeria Upnea50 Kalo di Ciro Salvo

Book food experiences in Naples

Naples: Guided Street Food Tour with Spritz★ 4.9 (1,631)

Guided tour · 2.5 hours

Naples: Guided Street Food Tour with Spritz

Discover the city center of Naples and the rich culinary traditions on a guided walking tour. Taste local specialties and delve into Neapolitan culture through meatbal...

from€39 Check dates
Naples: Pizza and Beyond Food Tour★ 4.8 (89)

Guided tour · 3 hours

Naples: Pizza and Beyond Food Tour

Embark on a Naples Guided Food Tour and savor handmade Neapolitan tarallo, Fried pizza, Frittatina di pasta, Pizza, Babà and Espresso, while discovering the city’s ric...

from€41 Check dates

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Plan the trip

Making a trip of these plans? Where to stay in Naples, what to book ahead, and a car for the day trips. Prices and availability open on each partner's site.

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