Neapolitan pizza€materdei
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza (Sophia Loren's choice on screen) the unmissable order alongside the canonical margherita.
Signature: Montanara fried pizza, Pizza margherita, Angioletti
Order: Montanara fried pizza, margherita and angioletti dough fritters to start.
Tip: Closed Monday lunch; otherwise open daily 12:00 to 24:00. No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue.
Neapolitan pizza, fritti€centro-storico
Di Matteo on Via dei Tribunali in Naples has fried pizza, frittatine and crocchè from the streetside window since 1936; Bill Clinton's 1994 lunch stop sits in the legend.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza fritta, Crocchè di patate
Order: The pizza fritta from the window, then pizza margherita inside and crocchè di patate.
Tip: Open daily 10:00 to 24:00. Cash preferred at the window; sit-down service runs upstairs.
Neapolitan pizza€€toledo
Brandi off Via Toledo in Naples claims the 1889 invention of the pizza margherita by Raffaele Esposito for Queen Margherita of Savoy. The queen's thank-you letter still hangs in the dining room.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara
Order: Pizza margherita, the canonical version named for the queen in 1889.
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:00 to 24:00. Book ahead for groups; the original Esposito plaque sits at the entrance.
Neapolitan pizza, fine pizza€€€sanita
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining room, with tasting menus of six small pizzas and a wine pairing in the historic 1951 family room.
Signature: Tasting pizza menu, Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara
Order: The five-pizza tasting menu and the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
Tip: Book on the website three weeks ahead. The tasting menu runs 45 euros; the historic counter still serves the classic pizzas.
Modern Campanian€€€€chiaia
Lino Scarallo's Palazzo Petrucci on Posillipo Hill in Naples holds one Michelin star and the seafront cliff terrace over the Bay, the city's most-told modern Campanian tasting room.
Signature: Lasagnetta di mozzarella di bufala, Risotto alla pescatora
Order: Lasagnetta di mozzarella di bufala and risotto alla pescatora with Bay views.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead via the website; the 145-euro tasting menu is the entry point. Terrace tables go first.
Neapolitan trattoria, seafood€€chiaia
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and the spaghetti alle vongole anchoring the historic carte.
Signature: Spaghetti alle vongole, Tubettoni do treddeta, Pizza
Order: Tubettoni do treddeta (the house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:30 to 23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.