Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Naples actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Naples actually eats.
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch.
OrderPasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.
TipNo bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking.
OrderPaccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Seven Tandem rooms across the centre share the carte.
Da Michele in Naples' Forcella has baked margherita and marinara since 1870, the city's defining pizza counter. Kitchen leans neapolitan pizza.
OrderPizza margherita and pizza marinara, the only two on the carte for 150 years.
TipTake a numbered ticket from the door and wait outside. Margherita is 5 euros 50; cash preferred.
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza (Sophia Loren's screen choice) the unmissable order alongside.
OrderMontanara fried pizza, margherita and angioletti dough fritters to start.
TipClosed Monday lunch; otherwise daily 12:00-24:00. No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue.
Di Matteo on Via dei Tribunali in Naples has fried pizza, frittatine and crocchè from the streetside window since 1936; Bill Clinton's 1994 lunch stop.
OrderPizza fritta from the window, pizza margherita inside and crocchè di patate.
TipOpen daily 10:00-24:00. Cash preferred at the window; sit-down service runs upstairs.
Salumeria Upnea in Naples' Centro Storico is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta.
OrderThe salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
TipClosed Monday. Open daily 12:00-23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.
OrderPagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
Brandi off Via Toledo in Naples claims the 1889 invention of the pizza margherita by Raffaele Esposito for Queen Margherita of Savoy. Priced at €€.
OrderPizza margherita, the canonical version named for the queen in 1889.
TipOpen daily 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-24:00. Book ahead for groups; the original Esposito plaque sits at the entrance.
Gino Sorbillo's headquarters on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the third-generation family pizzeria, with 21 siblings carrying the dough across four city.
OrderMargherita with San Marzano DOP and the seasonal special with friarielli.
TipNo bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:00 for the shortest queue. Lievito Madre two doors down handles overflow.
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
OrderPasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
TipClosed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.
Trattoria Malinconico in Naples' Vomero is a no-frills neighborhood institution with daily-changing pasta, genovese, and ragu napoletano on Sundays.
OrderGenovese, ragu napoletano on Sunday, frittata di maccheroni.
TipClosed Sunday. Cash preferred. Carafe wine; the room fills nightly with locals so arrive at opening or expect a wait.
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese.
OrderGenovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
TipClosed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring.
OrderTubettoni do treddeta (house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
TipOpen Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining counter, with tasting menus of six small pizzas and a wine pairing.
OrderThe five-pizza tasting menu and the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
TipBook on the website three weeks ahead. Tasting runs 45 euros; the historic counter still serves the classic pizzas.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Naples feeds you first and explains later. This small-group walk through the royal heart of the city and the Spanish Quarters turns a Sunday lunch's worth of flavor in...
Guided tour · 3 hours
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Guided tour · 3 hours
Experience the flavors of Naples on this guided street food tour and uncover the tradition of Neapolitan cuisine. Explore the Pignasecca market and walk the lively str...