Bohemian hilltop east of the centre, allegedly more pubs per square metre than any neighbourhood in Europe. Tower Park, BeerGeek shop, late-night.
Candycane Coffee is the Zizkov roastery built by the same partners who run Onesip in the Old Town. Open mon-fri 10:00-18:00. At Havlickovo namesti 189/2.
Tip: The Onesip counter on Hastalska is the easiest way to taste current Candycane lots.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Kenya, Burundi
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Chefparade's Zizkov studio is the second city kitchen, with smaller classes and a rotating programme: Czech classics, Vietnamese pho, Italian pasta.
Tip: Vegetarian-friendly classes run monthly; check the calendar.
U Vystřelenýho oka has run on the slope below the Žižkov hill since the 1990s, named after the one-eyed Hussite commander Jan Žižka. Pilsner Urquell from the tap, a fish tank built into the bar counter, a courtyard beer garden in summer and occasional punk and acoustic live sets in the back room.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The beer garden out back is the summer seat; cash only, smoking inside is part of the deal.
Bukowski's has run on Bořivojova since 2008, named after Charles Bukowski with smoke-fogged candles, cocktails and cigars across a small wood-panelled room. The bar trades on a downbeat-but-friendly Žižkov atmosphere and a cocktail list cheaper than the Old Town options.
Tip: Cash only at the door; the room fills after 22:00. Smoking inside; the back room is quieter.