Czech beef goulash with bread dumplings: slow-braised chunks of beef in a paprika gravy thickened with onions, sliced dumplings on the side to soak it all up.

Czech goulash diverged from the Hungarian original in the 19th century, becoming a stew rather than a soup. Bohemian and Moravian pubs thickened the gravy with onions, served it with bread dumplings rather than pasta, and added marjoram. Every pivnice cooks its own version; U Fleku's has poured beside the dark Flek lager for a century. The Czech tradition is to use beef shin or chuck, never veal as in the Hungarian Borjugulyas, and to break it down into shreds rather than keeping the chunks intact. Garnished with a swipe of mustard, slices of raw red onion and fresh bread to mop up.

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