Californian cuisine is San Francisco's signature: seasonal, market-driven and built on Northern California produce. Zuni Cafe in Hayes Valley and Nopa near Divisadero are touchstones of the everyday version, while Rich Table and Octavia push the modern bistro end. At the tasting-menu summit, Saison and Quince show how far the style can be taken.
$$$$CaliforniaHayes Valley
Zuni Cafe in San Francisco is the city's most enduring California room: Judy Rodgers' roast chicken for two with bread salad has not left the menu since 1987.
OrderThe Judy Rodgers roast chicken for two with bread salad, ordered the moment you sit.
TipThe chicken takes an hour to fire from order; book a table and ask the server to start it as you arrive.
$$$$CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.
OrderThe Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.
TipBar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.
$$$$CaliforniaHayes Valley
Rich Table in San Francisco is Sarah and Evan Rich's Hayes Valley California room near the opera house, holding a Michelin star and a strong house pasta menu.
OrderPorcini doughnuts with raclette for the table; the dish that put the room on the map.
TipThe bar seats see the whole pass; book one of the two and order the chef-counter pasta supplement.
$$$$CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.
OrderWhatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.
TipTuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.
$$$$CaliforniaCastro Noe Valley
Frances in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Castro neighbourhood room, holding a Michelin star with a 40-seat dining room and a wine list priced.
OrderApplewood-smoked bacon beignets with maple chive cream.
TipReservations open 30 days out at 10:00; the bar room takes walk-ins from 17:30.
$$$$CalifornianLower Pacific Heights
The Progress in San Francisco is State Bird Provisions' upstairs family-style sibling on Fillmore, with a four-course menu chosen by the table at the start.
OrderWhatever the four set courses are on the night; the format is fixed.
TipThe State Bird kitchen door opens behind the bar; ask for the State Bird supplement if you missed the downstairs reservation.
$$$$Californian
Saison in San Francisco is a three-Michelin-star hearth-driven tasting in SoMa, with live-fire seafood and California game over an oak fire.
TipCounter seats face the fire; the four-top tables at the back catch less of the kitchen action.
$$$$Californian
Quince in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's three-Michelin-star Jackson Square room, an Italian-inflected California tasting from the Fresh Run Farm produce.
TipThe neighbouring Cotogna sister room runs the same kitchen at a quarter the price, with walk-in seating.
$$$$Californian
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a communal dinner party for 40 guests across two long tables.
TipBring a notebook; the kitchen hands out a course list and pencils, and the menu rotates fast.
$$$$Californian
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's one-Michelin-star Pacific Heights room with a day-boat fish set menu and a long market-driven a la carte.
TipThe heirloom tomato course in August is the year's set piece; book at the end of July to land an August seat.
$$$$Californian
Rich Table in San Francisco is Evan and Sarah Rich's one-Michelin-star Hayes Valley room near the opera house, with the city's most-cited house pasta program.
TipThe chef-counter tasting is the best seat in the room and adds a hand-rolled pasta supplement.
$$$$Californian
Spruce in San Francisco is Mark Sullivan's one-Michelin-star Presidio Heights bistro with a dry-aged steak programme, a deep cellar and a cheese trolley.
TipThe bar room takes walk-ins; the side-cart cheese trolley is the closing move regardless of where you sit.