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Modern AmericanLower Pacific Heights
State Bird Provisions in San Francisco runs a small-plate dim-sum-cart format under Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, James Beard winners in 2015.
OrderThe State Bird itself, a brined and fried quail with sweet and sour onions.
TipReservations open exactly 60 days out at 7:30am Pacific; set an alarm or join the standing-room line at 5pm.
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CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.
OrderThe Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.
TipBar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.
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AmericanLower Pac Heights
Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco is Ravi Kapur's Hawaiian-leaning room above the Tenderloin, with one of the city's strongest fun-dinner energies.
OrderTuna poke with sesame nori chips, followed by spam fried rice.
TipThe bar room takes walk-ins; the dining room is two months out.
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SeafoodLower Pac Heights
Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco is a Polk Street counter that has served cold-house Dungeness, oysters and clam chowder since 1912 in 18 stools.
OrderCrab Louie and a half-dozen Marin Miyagis on the half shell.
TipOpen 10:30-17:00 only; queue forms at 09:45 on a weekend, takes an hour at peak.
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ItalianLower Pac Heights
Che Fico in San Francisco is David Nayfeld's Roman-leaning Italian on Divisadero, with Roman-Jewish artichokes, real Vesuvian pizza and a long Italian wine.
OrderRoman-Jewish artichokes in spring, the pizza alla diavola otherwise.
TipThe downstairs Che Fico Alimentari is the lunch counter with the same pasta at half the price.
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CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.
OrderWhatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.
TipTuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.