Italian in San Francisco

Sotto Mare ★ 4.5

Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.

OrderThe cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.

TipWear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.

Che Fico ★ 4.4

Che Fico in San Francisco is David Nayfeld's Roman-leaning Italian on Divisadero, with Roman-Jewish artichokes, real Vesuvian pizza and a long Italian wine.

OrderRoman-Jewish artichokes in spring, the pizza alla diavola otherwise.

TipThe downstairs Che Fico Alimentari is the lunch counter with the same pasta at half the price.

Scoma's ★ 4.3

Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.

OrderLazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.

TipReservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.

Cotogna ★ 4.5

Cotogna in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's casual Italian next to three-star Quince, with a wood oven turning out pizza and a Piedmontese pasta board.

OrderThe agnolotti dal plin with brown butter and sage, on the daily pasta list.

TipWalk in at 17:30 for the bar seats; the dining room books two weeks ahead.

Delfina ★ 4.4

Delfina in San Francisco is Craig and Annie Stoll's Mission trattoria, open since 1998, with a Tuscan-leaning pasta board and a roast chicken benchmark.

OrderSpaghetti with plum tomatoes; the Annie Stoll pasta on the menu since 1998.

TipPizzeria Delfina next door takes walk-ins and serves the same pizza dough; faster on a Friday.

Flour + Water ★ 4.3

Flour + Water in San Francisco is Thomas McNaughton's Mission pasta-and-pizza house, with a daily handmade pasta board and a Neapolitan oven up front.

OrderThe 5-course pasta tasting, the room's house format since 2009.

TipThe pasta tasting is the move; ordering pasta a la carte costs the same and gives you less.

Piccino ★ 4.3

Piccino in San Francisco is the Dogpatch Italian on a yellow corner, with wood-oven pizza. Priced at $$$. At 1001 Minnesota Street. Booking recommended.

OrderWood-oven mushroom and ricotta pizza, plus the seasonal pasta of the night.

TipBrunch the patio in spring; the cafe next door pours the same coffee at half the price.

Molinari Delicatessen ★ 4.7

Molinari Delicatessen in San Francisco is the 1896 North Beach Italian counter, with house-cut salumi, focaccia sandwiches and a line every weekday at noon.

TipOrder the Special: salami, mortadella, provolone, sun-dried tomato on house focaccia. Bring it to Washington Square.