Saison in San Francisco is a three-Michelin-star hearth-driven tasting in SoMa, with live-fire seafood and California game over an oak fire that runs all night.
Tip: Counter seats face the fire; the four-top tables at the back catch less of the kitchen action.
Address: 178 Townsend St, San Francisco, CA 94107
Quince in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's three-Michelin-star Jackson Square room, an Italian-inflected California tasting from the Fresh Run Farm produce supply.
Tip: The neighbouring Cotogna sister room runs the same kitchen at a quarter the price, with walk-in seating.
Benu in San Francisco is Corey Lee's three-Michelin-star modern Korean American tasting in SoMa, with a 14-seat counter and a 30-course pace through three hours.
Tip: The bar at sister Monsieur Benjamin takes walk-ins and runs the same culture on a bistro budget.
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting in SoMa, with masa from heritage corns nixtamalised in-house every morning.
Tip: The wine pairing is a strong commit; the agave pairing is the move if you want sotol and mezcal.
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a communal dinner party for 40 guests across two long tables.
Tip: Bring a notebook; the kitchen hands out a course list and pencils, and the menu rotates fast.
Birdsong in San Francisco is Christopher Bleidorn's two-Michelin-star Pacific Northwest tasting in SoMa, with a hearth-cooked menu rooted in foraging and shellfish.
Tip: The kitchen-counter four-top is the best seat; ask for it when booking opens at 09:00 Pacific.
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's one-Michelin-star regional Thai room near Union Square, with a kitchen set menu rotating the rabbit green curry.
Tip: The $95 set menu is better value than ordering a la carte; ask whether the cold larb is running.
