Spruce in San Francisco is Mark Sullivan's one-Michelin-star Presidio Heights bistro with a dry-aged steak programme and a cellar that runs into the thousands.
Tip: The bar room takes walk-ins; the side-cart cheese trolley is the closing move regardless of where you sit.
Address: 3640 Sacramento Street, San Francisco, CA 94118
Atelier Crenn in San Francisco is Dominique Crenn's three-Michelin-star Cow Hollow flagship, a poetry-of-cuisine vegetable-and-seafood tasting in 30 seats.
Tip: Sit at the chef's counter in the back for a longer hand-off and more conversation with the line.
Saison in San Francisco is a three-Michelin-star hearth-driven tasting in SoMa, with live-fire seafood and California game over an oak fire that runs all night.
Tip: Counter seats face the fire; the four-top tables at the back catch less of the kitchen action.
Quince in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's three-Michelin-star Jackson Square room, an Italian-inflected California tasting from the Fresh Run Farm produce supply.
Tip: The neighbouring Cotogna sister room runs the same kitchen at a quarter the price, with walk-in seating.
Benu in San Francisco is Corey Lee's three-Michelin-star modern Korean American tasting in SoMa, with a 14-seat counter and a 30-course pace through three hours.
Tip: The bar at sister Monsieur Benjamin takes walk-ins and runs the same culture on a bistro budget.
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting in SoMa, with masa from heritage corns nixtamalised in-house every morning.
Tip: The wine pairing is a strong commit; the agave pairing is the move if you want sotol and mezcal.
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a communal dinner party for 40 guests across two long tables.
Tip: Bring a notebook; the kitchen hands out a course list and pencils, and the menu rotates fast.
