The old fishermen's grid between the port and the Bastione, where Via Sardegna holds the trattorias that still recite the catch instead of printing it.
Luigi Pomata cooks Carloforte tuna in Cagliari, three rooms and a port-facing terrace above Viale Regina Margherita, raw fish to open and red tuna to follow.
OrderRed tuna, raw then seared, the house speciality.
TipLunch service runs 13:00 to 15:00 Tuesday to Saturday and is the cheaper way in; tinned house tuna is sold to take home.
Terra sits on the ground floor of Palazzo Tirso in Cagliari, a central design kitchen turning Sardinian seasonal produce into a gourmet carte.
OrderThe seasonal Sardinian tasting menu.
TipThe same hotel runs the Cielo terrace upstairs, so book Terra for dinner and move up for a drink over the Golfo degli Angeli.
Antica Hostaria on Via Cavour is the old-school Cagliari osteria of the Marina, dark wood and a fish-led list of Sardinian classics under Antonio Mura.
OrderFregula con arselle, or the baked capon with artichokes and potatoes.
TipClosed Sunday. The room started as a mid-nineteenth-century inn and the kitchen still leans on the fish list rather than the printed classics.
Trattoria Lillicu has fed the Marina from Via Sardegna for generations, marble tables, no printed menu, and whatever the Cagliari boats landed that morning.
OrderSpaghetti with arselle clams and bottarga.
TipDo not ask for a menu, the waiter recites the catch; arrive by 13:00 or after 14:00 to miss the queue. Monday the trattoria stays shut.
Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli feeds the Marina fixed-price Sardinian menus under brick arches, culurgiones and seadas at prices Cagliari students accept.
OrderCulurgiones, potato and mint, in tomato sauce.
TipThe set menus are the value play at around €20 to 30; go early, because groups book out the arched back room.
Stella Marina di Montecristo works the far end of Via Sardegna in Cagliari, sixty covers of maritime kit and fish bought fresh that morning.
OrderWhatever came off the boats that morning, cooked simply.
TipIt shuts for a variable stretch in August, and the sixty covers go fast in summer, so call the mobile number to hold a table.
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
OrderZuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
TipOpen every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
Trattoria da Serafino works a corner of Via Lepanto in Cagliari, an air-conditioned room of local fish plates and a back room for long lunches.
OrderWhatever local fish is on the board that day.
TipClosed Wednesday; the private back room takes the business lunches, so the front fills with regulars.
Osteria Kobuta cooks Japanese-Sardinian plates in Cagliari off Largo Carlo Felice, a seasonal menu built for sharing in a room of maybe ten tables.
OrderThe seasonal sharing menu, start to finish.
TipClosed Tuesday, and the kitchen writes a new menu each season; WhatsApp booking is the fastest way to get a table.
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
Terra sits on the ground floor of Palazzo Tirso in Cagliari, a central design kitchen turning Sardinian seasonal produce into a gourmet carte.
OrderThe seasonal Sardinian tasting menu.
TipThe same hotel runs the Cielo terrace upstairs, so book Terra for dinner and move up for a drink over the Golfo degli Angeli.
Luigi Pomata cooks Carloforte tuna in Cagliari, three rooms and a port-facing terrace above Viale Regina Margherita, raw fish to open and red tuna to follow.
OrderRed tuna, raw then seared, the house speciality.
TipLunch service runs 13:00 to 15:00 Tuesday to Saturday and is the cheaper way in; tinned house tuna is sold to take home.
Antica Hostaria on Via Cavour is the old-school Cagliari osteria of the Marina, dark wood and a fish-led list of Sardinian classics under Antonio Mura.
OrderFregula con arselle, or the baked capon with artichokes and potatoes.
TipClosed Sunday. The room started as a mid-nineteenth-century inn and the kitchen still leans on the fish list rather than the printed classics.
Trattoria Lillicu has fed the Marina from Via Sardegna for generations, marble tables, no printed menu, and whatever the Cagliari boats landed that morning.
OrderSpaghetti with arselle clams and bottarga.
TipDo not ask for a menu, the waiter recites the catch; arrive by 13:00 or after 14:00 to miss the queue. Monday the trattoria stays shut.
Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli feeds the Marina fixed-price Sardinian menus under brick arches, culurgiones and seadas at prices Cagliari students accept.
OrderCulurgiones, potato and mint, in tomato sauce.
TipThe set menus are the value play at around €20 to 30; go early, because groups book out the arched back room.
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
OrderZuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
TipOpen every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
Trattoria da Serafino works a corner of Via Lepanto in Cagliari, an air-conditioned room of local fish plates and a back room for long lunches.
OrderWhatever local fish is on the board that day.
TipClosed Wednesday; the private back room takes the business lunches, so the front fills with regulars.
Stella Marina di Montecristo works the far end of Via Sardegna in Cagliari, sixty covers of maritime kit and fish bought fresh that morning.
OrderWhatever came off the boats that morning, cooked simply.
TipIt shuts for a variable stretch in August, and the sixty covers go fast in summer, so call the mobile number to hold a table.
Impasto works Piazzetta Savoia in Cagliari's Marina as pasta laboratory, pizzeria and bakery at once, rolling fresh pasta and baking bread daily.
OrderFresh pasta from the counter, then a slice of the day's bread.
TipNamed a Pizzeria Eccellente by 50 Top Pizza in 2026; the tables on the piazzetta are first come, first served in summer.
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
Osteria Kobuta cooks Japanese-Sardinian plates in Cagliari off Largo Carlo Felice, a seasonal menu built for sharing in a room of maybe ten tables.
OrderThe seasonal sharing menu, start to finish.
TipClosed Tuesday, and the kitchen writes a new menu each season; WhatsApp booking is the fastest way to get a table.
Antico Caffè has traded on Piazza Costituzione in Cagliari since 1838, a protected historic room under the Bastione with pastries from 07:00.
OrderAn espresso and a pastry at the marble counter.
DrinkEspresso
TipItaly's culture ministry lists the room as protected; tables outside face the Bastione di Saint Remy and run until 02:00.
Caffe Svizzero sits on Largo Carlo Felice in Cagliari, a traditional cafe under a vaulted ceiling, the kind of room the city has kept rather than remodelled.
OrderMorning coffee and a pastry under the vault.
DrinkEspresso
TipThe vaulted room is the reason to stop rather than the menu; it works for a coffee and a pastry standing at the counter.
Impasto works Piazzetta Savoia in Cagliari's Marina as pasta laboratory, pizzeria and bakery at once, rolling fresh pasta and baking bread daily.
OrderFresh pasta from the counter, then a slice of the day's bread.
DrinkCoffee with fresh bread
TipNamed a Pizzeria Eccellente by 50 Top Pizza in 2026; the tables on the piazzetta are first come, first served in summer.
Durke has baked on Via Napoli in Cagliari since 1850, a historic pasticceria renowned for handmade Sardinian sweets, sold loose or boxed for travel.
OrderA box of the traditional Sardinian sweets off the counter.
TipSweets are sold to eat there or boxed for travel, which is the reason most people climb Via Napoli for them.
Impasto works Piazzetta Savoia in Cagliari's Marina as pasta laboratory, pizzeria and bakery at once, rolling fresh pasta and baking bread daily.
OrderFresh pasta from the counter, then a slice of the day's bread.
TipNamed a Pizzeria Eccellente by 50 Top Pizza in 2026; the tables on the piazzetta are first come, first served in summer.
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
Sabores is a Marina bottega in Cagliari on Via Baylle, Sardinian cheese and cured meat sold by weight and cut into boards for the aperitivo.
OrderThe large tagliere of Sardinian cheese and salumi.
PourVermentino di Sardegna
WineSardinian bottles from the shop shelves
FoodTaglieri, small and large
TipTwo board sizes, small and large, and both come with wine by the glass; the shop shelves are the souvenir run.
Spirits Boutique opened on Via Dettori in Cagliari's Marina in December 2021, mixologist Emilio Rocchino's vintage room behind a wall of rum and gin.
OrderA cocktail built on Sardinian myrtle or mirto.
DrinkMyrtle-led cocktails
FoodSnacks
TipThe back bar is the draw, whisky, rum, gin and vermouth from everywhere; it opens from midday and runs late, with snacks rather than a kitchen.
Sabores is a Marina bottega in Cagliari on Via Baylle, Sardinian cheese and cured meat sold by weight and cut into boards for the aperitivo.
OrderThe large tagliere of Sardinian cheese and salumi.
DrinkVermentino by the glass
FoodTaglieri
TipTwo board sizes, small and large, and both come with wine by the glass; the shop shelves are the souvenir run.
Antico Caffè has traded on Piazza Costituzione in Cagliari since 1838, a protected historic room under the Bastione with pastries from 07:00.
OrderAn espresso and a pastry at the marble counter.
DrinkEvening aperitivo
FoodPastries and plates
TipItaly's culture ministry lists the room as protected; tables outside face the Bastione di Saint Remy and run until 02:00.
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
Impasto works Piazzetta Savoia in Cagliari's Marina as pasta laboratory, pizzeria and bakery at once, rolling fresh pasta and baking bread daily.
OrderFresh pasta from the counter, then a slice of the day's bread.
TipNamed a Pizzeria Eccellente by 50 Top Pizza in 2026; the tables on the piazzetta are first come, first served in summer.
Durke has baked on Via Napoli in Cagliari since 1850, a historic pasticceria renowned for handmade Sardinian sweets, sold loose or boxed for travel.
OrderA box of the traditional Sardinian sweets off the counter.
TipSweets are sold to eat there or boxed for travel, which is the reason most people climb Via Napoli for them.
Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli feeds the Marina fixed-price Sardinian menus under brick arches, culurgiones and seadas at prices Cagliari students accept.
OrderCulurgiones, potato and mint, in tomato sauce.
TipThe set menus are the value play at around €20 to 30; go early, because groups book out the arched back room.
Impasto works Piazzetta Savoia in Cagliari's Marina as pasta laboratory, pizzeria and bakery at once, rolling fresh pasta and baking bread daily.
OrderFresh pasta from the counter, then a slice of the day's bread.
TipNamed a Pizzeria Eccellente by 50 Top Pizza in 2026; the tables on the piazzetta are first come, first served in summer.
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
OrderZuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
TipOpen every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
Trattoria da Serafino works a corner of Via Lepanto in Cagliari, an air-conditioned room of local fish plates and a back room for long lunches.
OrderWhatever local fish is on the board that day.
TipClosed Wednesday; the private back room takes the business lunches, so the front fills with regulars.
Antico Caffè has traded on Piazza Costituzione in Cagliari since 1838, a protected historic room under the Bastione with pastries from 07:00.
OrderAn espresso and a pastry at the marble counter.
TipItaly's culture ministry lists the room as protected; tables outside face the Bastione di Saint Remy and run until 02:00.
Caffe Svizzero sits on Largo Carlo Felice in Cagliari, a traditional cafe under a vaulted ceiling, the kind of room the city has kept rather than remodelled.
OrderMorning coffee and a pastry under the vault.
TipThe vaulted room is the reason to stop rather than the menu; it works for a coffee and a pastry standing at the counter.
Impasto works Piazzetta Savoia in Cagliari's Marina as pasta laboratory, pizzeria and bakery at once, rolling fresh pasta and baking bread daily.
OrderFresh pasta from the counter, then a slice of the day's bread.
TipNamed a Pizzeria Eccellente by 50 Top Pizza in 2026; the tables on the piazzetta are first come, first served in summer.
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
OrderZuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
TipOpen every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Embark on a Cagliari guided food tour and savor local charcuterie, pizza, handmade pastas and Sardinian sweets, while discovering the city’s rich culinary traditions.
3 hours
Learn to make pasta and tiramisù, the most iconic and traditional Italian recipes. Enjoy an authentic family experience, then savor your dishes tasted with a local wine
3 hours
Cook in a local Italian home, prepare 3 authentic recipes from scratch, enjoy your homemade feast with local wine, and experience real Italian culture in a warm, famil...
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