Italian€€San Benedetto
CUCINA.eat in Cagliari is shop, kitchen shop and counter in one on Piazza Galilei, cooking Sardinian recipes for communal tables near San Benedetto.
Order: Whatever is chalked up that day at the counter.
Tip: Counter seats beat the tables for solo lunch; wine by the glass and craft beer make it work as an aperitivo stop too.
Seafood€€€VillanovaMon-Sat 13:00-14:30, 20:00-22:30
Da Marino al St. Remy is Cagliari's small brick-walled seafood room by San Salvatore da Horta, run front of house by Marino Cogoni with Silvana Sardu cooking.
Order: Seafood antipasti, then a pasta with the day's catch.
Tip: The wine list leans hard on Sardinian growers; book, because the rooms hold only a few tables and Sunday is closed.
Modern European€€€San BenedettoTue-Fri 20:00-22:30; Sat 12:00-14:30, 20:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-14:30
Duanima in Cagliari is chef Luca Floris's small contemporary room on Via Satta, a short menu rewritten every week around Sardinian produce and market fish.
Order: The weekly menu, whichever way it runs.
Tip: Only Saturday and Sunday have a lunch sitting; the rest of the week it is dinner from 20:00 and the room fills fast.
Italian€€€Marina
Antica Hostaria on Via Cavour is the old-school Cagliari osteria of the Marina, dark wood and a fish-led list of Sardinian classics under Antonio Mura.
Order: Fregula con arselle, or the baked capon with artichokes and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The room started as a mid-nineteenth-century inn and the kitchen still leans on the fish list rather than the printed classics.
Modern European€€€Villanova
Old Friend in Cagliari is Dario Torabi's Villanova bistrot, where offal, spice and BBQ oysters are plated for people who came out to be surprised.
Order: BBQ oysters, then the herb-cured mullet.
Tip: Torabi opened the place in 2016 and moved it to Via Abba; dinner only, and the menu changes with what the boats and gardens bring.
Italian€€VillanovaMon-Sun 13:00-15:00; Mon-Sat 20:00-23:00
La Locanda dei Buoni e Cattivi in Cagliari is a villa restaurant and guest house that trains young staff, cooking seasonal organic Sardinian plates.
Order: Sunday's Sa Picchettada buffet lunch.
Tip: Weekday lunch runs a fixed-price menu alongside the carte; the garden and terrace are the reason to book ahead in spring.