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ItalianMarina
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
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BakeryVillanova
Ditrizio Pasticceria bakes just below the Bastione on Via Crispi in Cagliari, turning out pastries and pizzette sfoglia from seven in the morning.
OrderA pizzetta sfoglia, tomato and oregano.
TipGambero Rosso gave it the top Sardinian score of the Due Torte pasticcerie; Monday is the rest day, and the Ditrizio LAB counter is on Via Ottone Bacaredda 18.
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PizzeriaVillanova
Francis Drake on Via Oristano is where Cagliari eats at three in the morning, a kitchen running to 05:00 with pizza, pasta and grilled plates.
OrderA pizza at an hour nothing else is open.
TipThe kitchen runs to 05:00, which no other room in central Cagliari matches; expect a queue after 02:00.
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SeafoodMarina
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
OrderZuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
TipOpen every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
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SeafoodMarina
Trattoria da Serafino works a corner of Via Lepanto in Cagliari, an air-conditioned room of local fish plates and a back room for long lunches.
OrderWhatever local fish is on the board that day.
TipClosed Wednesday; the private back room takes the business lunches, so the front fills with regulars.
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Food hallStampace
Mercato di Santa Chiara is the oldest civic market in Cagliari, 300 square metres above Piazza Yenne on the site of a convent bombed during the war.
TryMarket food court plates
TipRenovation turned part of the hall into a food court, so the stalls now run from breakfast into the evening above Piazza Yenne.