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BakeryMarina
Durke has baked on Via Napoli in Cagliari since 1850, a historic pasticceria renowned for handmade Sardinian sweets, sold loose or boxed for travel.
OrderA box of the traditional Sardinian sweets off the counter.
TipSweets are sold to eat there or boxed for travel, which is the reason most people climb Via Napoli for them.
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PizzeriaVillanova
Francis Drake on Via Oristano is where Cagliari eats at three in the morning, a kitchen running to 05:00 with pizza, pasta and grilled plates.
OrderA pizza at an hour nothing else is open.
TipThe kitchen runs to 05:00, which no other room in central Cagliari matches; expect a queue after 02:00.
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Food hallStampace
Mercato di Santa Chiara is the oldest civic market in Cagliari, 300 square metres above Piazza Yenne on the site of a convent bombed during the war.
TryMarket food court plates
TipRenovation turned part of the hall into a food court, so the stalls now run from breakfast into the evening above Piazza Yenne.
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ItalianMarina
Panefratteria builds its Cagliari menu on pane carasau, the sheet bread softened into pane frattau and zuppa gallurese in a modern room on Via Azuni.
OrderPane frattau, tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
TipClosed Tuesday; there is a garden at the back and the grappa and Sardinian wine list is longer than the food menu.
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BakeryVillanova
Ditrizio Pasticceria bakes just below the Bastione on Via Crispi in Cagliari, turning out pastries and pizzette sfoglia from seven in the morning.
OrderA pizzetta sfoglia, tomato and oregano.
TipGambero Rosso gave it the top Sardinian score of the Due Torte pasticcerie; Monday is the rest day, and the Ditrizio LAB counter is on Via Ottone Bacaredda 18.