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Order Eight-course tofu kaiseki with yuba sashimi and warmed soy-milk pots
Tofu-kaiseki on a Kamogawa riverside terrace, hidden down a narrow Kiyamachi alley in a preserved Taisho-era townhouse just steps from Pontocho.
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Order Yudofu Gozen course with simmered Kyoto vegetables and tempura
A long-running garden-side yudofu room beside Nanzen-ji, set on a 1,200-tsubo strolling-garden plot in Kyoto that changes with every season.
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Order Yudofu set with dengaku miso-glazed tofu skewers
Nanzenji Sando Kikusui in Sakyo in Kyoto is a sukiya inn near Nanzenji with a Jihei Ogawa garden, yudofu kaiseki featuring Hattori tofu, seasonal courses.
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Order Matsu Gozen set: yudofu, yuba-sashimi and seasonal Kyo-yasai
A Nishijin yudofu room set in a former silk-warehouse machiya, opened in the 1970s.
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Order Cold sesame Omen with seasonal vegetable plate
A hand-cut udon counter beside Ginkaku-ji, opened in Kyoto in 1967.
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Order Unaju lacquer-box rice and grilled eel with sansho
Charcoal-grilled freshwater eel on Kyogoku Shotengai since the Taisho era.
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Order Hitsumabushi served three ways with dashi tea-pour finish
A Michelin-listed unagi specialist on the main Arashiyama lane since 1967, rebuilt 2009.
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Order Unaju with white-grilled shirayaki appetiser
A Pontocho unagi room above the Kamogawa in Kyoto, founded 1916.
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Order Yuki shojin set with the temple's signature sesame tofu
Bib Gourmand-listed shojin-ryori inside Tenryu-ji's precinct in Arashiyama.
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Order Tetsubachi ryori shojin set, served in seven nested bowls
Daitoku-ji shojin-ryori served in nested vermillion lacquer bowls modelled on a Buddhist begging bowl.
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Order Premium wagyu sirloin and tongue salt for two
The Sanjo flagship of Kyoto's largest yakiniku family, run from a Kyoto Sanjo shopping-street site since 1997.
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Order Premium-pork loin set with sesame-ground tonkatsu sauce
Tonkatsu born in Kyoto and exported nationally.
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Order Obanzai assortment with simmered ebi-imo and yuba
The grandmother of Kyoto obanzai counters.
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Order Daily tofu obanzai set with simmered fish
An obanzai counter five minutes from Hankyu Kawaramachi in Kyoto where the tofu plates outshine the rest.
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Order Tesaki sushi assemble-your-own tray
AWOMB Karasuma Honten in Nakagyo in Kyoto is the original teori-zushi machiya, around 50 seasonal vegetables and obanzai to assemble hand-rolled sushi.
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Order Yakitori assortment plus three-sauce kushikatsu set
Yakitori and kushikatsu on a Kiyamachi second floor, the house tare on its 20th year of topping-up.
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Order Premium kaiseki with seasonal seafood and wagyu
A modern kappo on Pontocho serving 10-course kaiseki anchored by Maizuru seafood and Tamba wagyu.
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Order Chef's omakase with open-fire grilled vegetables and seafood
A 10-seat modern Japanese counter from chef Jacob Kear (ex-Noma) and Stuart Brioza.
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Order Daily fish teishoku with side plates
A teishoku counter near Karasuma-Oike in Kyoto.
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Order Issen yoshoku, the single menu item
A 1925 Gion counter selling one dish only in Kyoto: issen yoshoku, a pancake of batter, green onion, meat scraps and Worcestershire sauce.
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Order 30-piece gyoza order with a draft beer
A Gion counter on Hanamikoji that sells one item: pan-fried gyoza orders, paired with cold Asahi.
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Order Premium loin katsu set with sesame sauce ground tableside
Katsukura's Kyoto Station basement outlet, perched in Porta's depachika.
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Order Black wagyu sirloin set with tongue salt for two
The Kyoto Station tower outlet of the Hiro yakiniku family, five minutes from the platforms.
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Order Six-skewer assortment with tsukune and yolk dip
A yakitori counter on Teramachi in Kyoto using Omi-jidori and Kyoto-duck.
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Order Rare-cut omakase skewer flight
A binchotan-grill yakitori counter near Karasuma in Kyoto.
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Order Tableside grilled-vegetable course with sashimi
A vegetable-led counter on Kiyamachi in Kyoto, the chef-owner running his own farm in north Kyoto.
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Order Kamonanban duck soba with smoked-yuzu broth
Kawamichiya's adjacent Kosho-an counter in Kyoto, a renovated 110-year machiya.
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Order Five-plate obanzai set with a clay-pot rice option
An obanzai counter near Hankyu Kawaramachi in Kyoto, with a daily-changing five-plate set built on seasonal Kyo-yasai.
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Order Three-plate showcase set with grilled fish
An obanzai showcase three minutes from Hankyu Karasuma in Kyoto.
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Order Five-plate obanzai assortment with simmered yuba
A small obanzai room near the Arashiyama tram in Kyoto, dinner-only and locals-favoured.
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Order 10-dish simmered vegetable course with sake flight
A vegetable-focused kappo counter on a Kawaramachi second floor in Kyoto.
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Order Lunch tempura course with sea bream and prawn
The walk-in counter of the Yoshikawa tempura ryokan in Kyoto, an alternative to the full kaiseki room.
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The defining three-Michelin-star kaiseki room in Kyoto.
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An Edo-era teahouse at the gate of Nanzen-ji in Kyoto, restyled as a ryotei in 1837.
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Three-Michelin-star kaiseki on the Hozugawa river bend in Arashiyama, Kyoto, run by chef Kunio Tokuoka in a sukiya-style garden tatami room.
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Hitoshi Ishihara opened Mizai in a corner of Maruyama Park, Kyoto, after years at Kitcho Arashiyama.
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Chef Yoshimi Tanigawa's kaiseki room beside Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto.
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Hiroshi Sasaki runs a teacher-and-apprentice kitchen on Komatsu-cho.
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Murata's casual-counter spinoff on Kiyamachi, opened for Kikunoi's 60th anniversary.
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Masayoshi Nishikawa earned a star a year after opening at 33 in Kyoto.
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The Muromachi outpost of the Wakuden group, set in a Karasuma machiya with open charcoal braziers in the dining room.
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A nine-seat tempura counter in central Kyoto run by Tawaraya, the ryokan operating since the early 1700s.
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Tempura in a converted teahouse near Yasaka Pagoda, Kyoto, an ochaya from the early 1900s.
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A 1952 ryokan and tempura counter in Kyoto set around a sublime Japanese garden, downtown.
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Named for the central kaiseki course, Hassun runs a quiet ryotei in Gion, Kyoto, a block south of Hanamikoji.
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A Meiji-era kaiseki house on the Kodaiji grounds, established in Kyoto by the third-generation Yamato proprietor in 1949 and rooted in an 1877 Osaka original.
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Try Kushikatsu and yakitori
Azumaya's late-night yakitori counter on Kiyamachi in Kyoto runs until 01:00, Saturdays to 02:00.
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Try Pan-fried gyoza
Senmonten's one-item gyoza counter on Hanamikoji stays open through 01:00 in Kyoto.
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Try Chicken-paitan oden
Ponshya Santoku's standing oden counter in Shimogyo, Kyoto, runs until 01:00.
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A small counter on Hanamikoji in Gion, Kyoto, with one item only: pan-fried gyoza by the order.
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A yudofu room set in a former silk-warehouse machiya in Nishijin, Kyoto.
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A standing oden counter in a Shimogyo machiya in Kyoto, with chicken-paitan broth.
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A handmade onigiri counter near the Philosopher's Path in north Kyoto.
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A shojin-ryori room inside Daiji-in sub-temple at Daitoku-ji (founded 1585) in Kyoto.
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Kawamichiya's quieter Kosho-an soba counter in a 110-year Kyoto machiya.
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A vegetable-led counter on Kiyamachi in Kyoto run by a chef-farmer.
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A red-walled basement kissaten on Sanjo-Kawaramachi in Kyoto since 1950.
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Try Issen yoshoku pancake
Gion's 1925 single-dish counter selling issen yoshoku pancake for 680 yen in Kyoto.
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Try Tonkatsu set with free-flow sides
Katsukura's tonkatsu set in Kyoto Station Porta basement at 1,300 yen lunch.
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Try Unaju eel rice box
Kane-yo's lunch unaju is the cheapest eel lacquer-box in Kyoto around 2,000 yen.
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Try Sesame Omen udon set
Omen's hand-cut udon under 1,600 yen at the Ginkaku-ji branch in Kyoto.
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Try Mame mochi sweet
Salted-bean and azuki mochi for 220 yen at the city's most famous wagashi shinise in Demachiyanagi, Kyoto.
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Try Five-plate obanzai set
Kotowari's obanzai set in Kyoto under 1,500 yen lunch.