Japanese tofu¥¥¥pontocho
Tofu-kaiseki on a Kamogawa riverside terrace, hidden down a narrow Kiyamachi alley in a preserved Taisho-era townhouse just steps from Pontocho.
Signature: Tofu kaiseki, Yuba sashimi, Yu-dofu
Order: Eight-course tofu kaiseki with yuba sashimi and warmed soy-milk pots
Tip: Book a tatami room on the riverside for kawayuka decking from mid-May to September.
Japanese tofu¥¥¥northern-higashiyama
A long-running garden-side yudofu room beside Nanzen-ji, set on a 1,200-tsubo strolling-garden plot in Kyoto that changes with every season.
Signature: Yudofu, Yuba, Tofu kaiseki
Order: Yudofu Gozen course with simmered Kyoto vegetables and tempura
Tip: Book the garden-side tatami pavilion; walk-ins are turned away in foliage season.
Japanese tofu¥¥¥sakyo11:00-17:00 last order 16:15. Closed Thursday
Nanzenji Sando Kikusui in Sakyo in Kyoto is a sukiya inn near Nanzenji with a Jihei Ogawa garden, yudofu kaiseki featuring Hattori tofu, seasonal courses.
Signature: Yudofu, Dengaku
Order: Yudofu set with dengaku miso-glazed tofu skewers
Tip: Closes Thursdays. Aim for the 12:30 sitting before the temple-touring crowd lands.
Japanese tofu¥¥kamigyo-nishijin11:30-14:00 last order 13:30; 17:00-21:00 last order 20:00. Closed Mon and Thu
A Nishijin yudofu room set in a former silk-warehouse machiya, opened in the 1970s. Quiet, courtyard-view tatami; locals know the Matsu Gozen set.
Signature: Yudofu, Yuba, Matsu Gozen set
Order: Matsu Gozen set: yudofu, yuba-sashimi and seasonal Kyo-yasai
Tip: Closed Mondays and Thursdays. Two-minute walk from the Omiya Nakauri bus stop.
Japanese udon¥¥northern-higashiyama11:00-21:00 last order 20:00. Closed Thursday
A hand-cut udon counter beside Ginkaku-ji, opened in Kyoto in 1967. The Omen bowl pairs wheat noodles with sesame, vegetables and a dipping dashi.
Signature: Omen udon, Sesame udon
Order: Cold sesame Omen with seasonal vegetable plate
Tip: Cash and card both accepted. Closes 21:00; arrive before the 19:00 dinner rush.
Japanese unagi¥¥¥karasuma-kawaramachi11:30-15:30; 17:00-21:00 last order 20:30
Charcoal-grilled freshwater eel on Kyogoku Shotengai since the Taisho era. Lacquered chests, tatami rooms upstairs, the smoke spilling onto Sanjo.
Signature: Unaju, Kabayaki, Hitsumabushi
Order: Unaju lacquer-box rice and grilled eel with sansho
Tip: Hour-long queues at peak. Walk in 30 minutes before doors open to land a counter seat.