Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Coda alla vaccinara is Rome's slow-cooked oxtail stew: braised for hours in red wine, tomato, celery and cocoa, served falling-off-the-bone with the gravy spooned over pasta or polenta.
Coda alla vaccinara is Testaccio's signature dish, born in the slaughterhouse quarter that gave the city its quinto quarto (fifth quarter) offal tradition. The vaccinari (slaughterhouse workers) took the unwanted oxtail home, slow-braising it in tomato, red wine, celery and pine nuts over a low fire for four hours. The cocoa addition (a small spoon of unsweetened cocoa stirred in at the end) is the Roman fingerprint that distinguishes the dish from a Tuscan or Lombard oxtail stew. Checchino dal 1887, Flavio al Velavevodetto and the Testaccio canon all serve canonical versions; the dish typically arrives with rigatoni or polenta to soak the gravy.
4 editor picks for Coda alla vaccinara in Rome, ranked by editorial score. All Rome signature dishes · Coda alla vaccinara across every city.
Armando al Pantheon in Rome has cooked the four Roman pastas and the quinto quarto canon since 1961, a few steps from the Pantheon. Located in Centro Storico.
OrderCacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, and the abbacchio when it's on the carte.
TipBookings open exactly two months ahead on the website. Walk-up tables exist but only for lone diners and only at 12:30.
Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.
TipThe amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.
Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.
OrderRigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
TipThe cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.
Perilli in Rome's Testaccio has cooked the rigatoni con la pajata and the bucatini all'amatriciana since 1911. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
OrderRigatoni con la pajata (the dish of the house), bucatini all'amatriciana and a glass of Frascati.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Cash and card; cover charge is €2 per head.
Coda alla vaccinara makes more sense with someone from Rome explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.
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