Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Milan actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Milan actually eats.
28 Posti in Milan's Navigli runs a 28-seat counter, the lunch trattoria where Marco Ambrosino cooked Mediterranean modern Italian from 2010.
OrderThe seasonal tasting set; the squash ravioli with sage is the signature primo.
TipBookings open one week ahead. Lunch sittings 12:30 and 14:00; the chef's counter overlooks the open kitchen.
Remulass in Milan's Porta Romana runs a vegetable-led modern Italian carte from chef Diego Bottani since 2022. Kitchen leans modern italian, vegetable-led.
OrderThe seasonal vegetable tasting; the herb risotto and the radish-fermented main are the signature plates.
TipBookings open one week ahead. Lunch is a calmer service; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the busy one.
Al Posto in Milan's Porta Venezia runs Vito Bonanno's neo-trattoria carte from 2021, with rotating seasonal Italian plates priced at trattoria levels.
OrderThe risotto of the day and the seasonal pasta; the beef tartare is the steady carte signature.
TipBookings open one week ahead. The lunch carte at 25 euros is the cheaper way in; dinner runs longer.
Altatto Bistrot in Milan's Porta Venezia is Alessandra Cozzolino and Sara Nicolosi's vegetable-led bistrot, the lighter neighbourhood sister to Altatto.
OrderThe vegetable plate of the day, the herb tagliolini and the seasonal tasting set.
TipBookings open ten days ahead. The chef's table for four overlooks the open kitchen; vegan option on request.
Casa Camperio in Milan's Centro Storico is a neo-bistro a few steps from the Duomo, opened 2022 with a focused modern-Italian carte. Priced at €€€.
OrderThe risotto of the day, the beef tartare and the seasonal tasting set.
TipBookings open ten days ahead. The bar counter is the walk-up seat for early diners; service starts at 19:30.
Manna in Milan's NoLo district is Matteo Fronduti's modern-Italian neighbourhood room since 2008. Located in Isola. Kitchen leans modern italian.
OrderThe seasonal pasta of the day, the slow-roasted pork shoulder and the tasting set.
TipBookings open one week ahead. Lunch carte is the cheaper way in; the natural-wine list runs deep on small Italian growers.
Bu:r in Milan's Porta Romana is Eugenio Boer's modern-Italian fine bistro, the Dutch-Italian chef's flagship since 2018, holding one Michelin star.
OrderThe Bu:r tasting set; the herb tortelli and the slow-braised beef cheek are signature plates.
TipBookings open three weeks ahead. The lunch carte at 65 euros is the cheaper way in; vegetarian tasting available with notice.
Mater Bistrot in Milan's Porta Venezia is a modern-Italian neighbourhood room with a focused weekly-changing carte and natural-wine list. Priced at €€.
OrderThe seasonal pasta of the day, the risotto and the beef tartare.
TipBookings open one week ahead. Lunch is the calmer service; the natural-wine list runs deep on Italian growers under 30 euros.
Dongio in Milan's Porta Romana has cooked Calabrian southern-Italian since 1980, the city's reference for 'nduja and Calabrian peppers. Priced at €€.
OrderThe 'nduja pasta, the beef carpaccio and the Calabrian peppers as antipasto.
TipBookings open one week ahead by phone. The Calabrian wine list runs deep on Magliocco and Gaglioppo producers.
Morelli in Milan's Sempione is chef Giancarlo Morelli's flagship dining room, opened 2010, with one Michelin star. Located in Centro Storico.
OrderThe Morelli tasting set; the veal tortelli and the lemon risotto are the signature plates.
TipBookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's counter at the open kitchen is the seat to ask for; vegetarian tasting available.
Locanda Perbellini in Milan is Giancarlo Perbellini's neighbourhood-format Venetian-modern carte, the satellite to his three-star Casa Perbellini in Verona.
OrderThe cuttlefish ink risotto, the bigoli with duck and the Verona-style tasting set.
TipBookings open two weeks ahead. Lunch carte at 35 euros is the cheaper way in; the wine list runs deep on Veneto producers.
Antica Osteria Il Ronchettino in Milan's southern suburbs has cooked the Lombard farming canon since the 1920s, in an 18th-century farmstead.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cassoeula in winter and the ossobuco.
TipBookings open one week ahead. The garden tables are the destination in summer; closed Mondays and August.
Il Liberty in Milan's Porta Garibaldi is Andrea Provenzani's modern-Italian dining room since 2007, near Stazione Garibaldi. Located in Isola.
OrderThe risotto of the day, the tortelli and the seasonal tasting set.
TipBookings open one week ahead. Lunch carte at 30 euros is the cheaper way in; the dining room is small and intimate.
Il Cairoli in Milan's Brera district is the modern-Italian dining room of chef Marco Sacco's Milan project, opened 2019. Located in Centro Storico.
OrderThe seasonal tasting set; the risotto with bone marrow and the seasonal primo are the signatures.
TipBookings open two weeks ahead. The chef's counter is the spot to ask for; book the 19:30 sitting for a slower service.
Rovello 18 in Milan's Brera district is a Lombard trattoria with the Milanese canon at neighbourhood prices since 2014. Located in Centro Storico.
OrderThe risotto alla milanese, the cotoletta with bone in and the vitello tonnato.
TipBookings open one week ahead by phone. Lunch is the calmer service; closed Sundays and three weeks in August.
Testina on Via Abbadesse is a modern trattoria for the Milanese canon, risotto with ossobuco, cotoletta and mondeghili, plus Piacenza gnocco fritto.
OrderThe risotto giallo with ossobuco and gremolada, or the riso al salto if you want the crisp version.
TipClosed Monday and for Saturday lunch. Zara and Sondrio metro stops are the nearest; wines come by the glass at fair prices.
DedasPuri, 'mother's bread' in Georgian, is a women-run Georgian kitchen on Via De Amicis near Sant'Ambrogio: hand-pleated khinkali, khachapuri, wine shop.
OrderKhinkali with the spiced meat filling, or the cheese-and-potato version, then a khachapuri to share.
TipTuesday is dinner only; the rest of the week runs lunch and dinner. Vegetarian and vegan plates are a real part of the menu, not an afterthought.
Federico dal 1929 bakes the Pizza Ovale, a hand-stretched sixty-centimetre oval on a thin, low-yeast base from a family recipe, on Viale Regina Margherita.
OrderOne Pizza Ovale per person is the format; pick a simple topping so the thin base stays crisp.
TipOpen every day for lunch and dinner, later on Saturday. The second branch is in Lecco; this is the only Milan address.
Dawat on Corso Sempione cooks the north Indian repertoire, tandoor breads and curries with Tibetan and Burmese touches, in a room taken over in 2013.
OrderTandoori chicken or the boti kebab from the clay oven, with a vegetable curry; many dishes are gluten free.
TipLunch runs Wednesday to Sunday with fixed-price menus; dinner is served every night. Booking is appreciated.
Risotteria Melotti by Porta Genova serves fifteen risottos made with the family's own Vialone Nano and Carnaroli from Isola della Scala, all gluten free.
OrderThe Risotto all'Isolana served in its little pan, the family's home-town recipe, at 16 euros.
TipOpen every day from 11:00, with continuous service Friday to Sunday. The Milan room follows Verona, New York, Rome and Florence.
Osteria Passami il Sale sits on Via Villoresi, a quiet street eight minutes from Porta Genova, cooking sea and land dishes from the Italian repertoire.
OrderThe seafood specialities of the day; the wine list is short and Italian.
TipOne of the few Navigli kitchens open on Monday, dinner only that night; Sunday is lunch only. Satispay and cards accepted.
Casa Biga's Moscova room on Via Volta was the first of Simone Nicolosi's two Milan pizzerias: contemporary pizzas, fried starters and a gluten-free line.
OrderA porcini pizza in season or the padellino, with the crocche to start.
TipAbout sixty seats inside and twenty outside; book on weekend evenings. The second branch is in Isola on Via Pollaiuolo.
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