The places in Milan the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.

Off the beaten plate

Trattoria da Pino ★ 4.2

€€ ItalianCentro Storico

Trattoria da Pino in Milan: italian room. No sign on the door, cash-preferred, and the two-course menu changes daily; Milanese office workers.

Why locals goNo sign on the door, cash-preferred, and the two-course menu changes daily; Milanese office workers fill it at noon before tourists find it.

TipArrive by 12:15 or the daily pasta runs out; the ribollita sells first.

Cantine Isola ★ 4.6

€€ Wine barIsola

Cantine Isola on Paolo Sarpi is a Chinatown wine-shop facade with a handful of stools, cash-only and a handwritten weekly list of Lombard and natural bottles.

Why locals goChinatown wine-shop facade with a handful of stools inside; no website, cash only and the handwritten wine list changes weekly with producer-direct Lombard and natural bottles.

TipGo Tuesday or Thursday evenings when the importer drops new cases and Andrea opens something unannounced.

Pasticceria Sissi ★ 4.2

€€ BakeryPorta Venezia

Pasticceria Sissi at Piazza Risorgimento is a 1950s neighbourhood shop with no social presence; the prosciutto-stuffed brioche sells out before tourist hours.

Why locals goA 1950s neighbourhood pasticceria at Piazza Risorgimento the locals have kept to themselves; no social presence and the prosciutto-stuffed brioche sells out before tourist hours.

TipThe savouri brioche with prosciutto crudo is the order; arrive before 07:30 on weekdays.

Vinoir ★ 4.5

€€ Wine barNavigli

Vinoir is a wine bar room in Navigli. Ask what the producer left behind; there are usually unlisted bottles from importers who stopped by that week.

Why locals goThe first natural-wine bar in Milan opened in 2012 on Ripa di Porta Ticinese with no sign; the canalside terrace fills with producers in town for Vinitaly.

TipAsk what the producer left behind; there are usually unlisted bottles from importers who stopped by that week.

Stadera Gastronomia Contemporanea ★ 4.0

€€ ItalianPorta Romana

Stadera is chef Aldo Ritrovato's contemporary deli at Largo della Crocetta, a former post-war salumeria serving Campanian home cooking at the counter.

Why locals goA narrow counter-and-shelf room at Largo della Crocetta that began life as a post-war salumeria; chef Aldo Ritrovato cooks Campanian-rooted plates to eat on a stool or take away.

TipOpen Tuesday to Saturday with continuous service from 11:30 to 23:00; the deli counter is the cheap route, the kitchen menu the fuller one.

Levino Milano ★ 3.9

€€€ SeafoodPorta Romana

Levino Milano on Via Pietro Custodi serves the seafood cooking of the Abruzzo coast inside an early 1900s palazzo near Porta Romana, with a sommelier's list.

Why locals goTucked into a side street off Via Col di Lana in an early 1900s palazzo, Levino cooks the seafood of the Abruzzo coast, a cuisine almost absent from Milan, in a velvet-lined salon.

TipClosed Sunday; Monday is dinner only. The owner's family trade comes from San Vito Chietino, and the bocconotti filled with grape must close the meal.

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