Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Signature dishes: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pollo al burro, Tortino di carciofi
Must order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.
Address: Via del Porcellana, 25/r, 50123 Firenze, Florence
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Lunch only, no bookings, communal tables, cash only.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing market carte since 2002.
Signature: Crudo di manzo, Pici al ragu di anatra, Coniglio in porchetta
Order: The crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.
Marco Stabile's Ora d'Aria in Florence's Centro Storico holds a Michelin star for a modern Tuscan kitchen that reads pappa al pomodoro and bistecca through technique-driven plating since 2008.
Signature: Risotto al pomodoro, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The signature pappa al pomodoro risotto and the seasonal pigeon course.
Tip: Lunch tasting €60 vs €120 dinner. Ask for the chef's-counter seats when you book.
Locale Firenze in Florence's Centro Storico sits inside the 13th-century Palazzo delle Seggiole, the Concettini family's Michelin-starred kitchen with a bar and tasting room since 2018.
Signature: Tortelli di rabarbaro, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The tortelli di rabarbaro signature pasta and the pigeon course from the tasting carte.
Tip: The cocktail room downstairs is the cheaper entry point; pre-dinner aperitivo from 18:30.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.
Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di manzo
Order: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
Simone Cipriani's Essenziale in Florence's San Frediano runs the open-kitchen tasting concept inside a former leather warehouse, with a lampredotto course that reframes the street classic.
Signature: Tasting menu, Lampredotto reinterpreted, Game
Order: The five-course tasting and the lampredotto reinterpreted dish if it is on the carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; tasting menus only at dinner. Book three weeks ahead.
