Modern Italian fine dining€€€€centro-storico
Santa Elisabetta in Florence's Hotel Brunelleschi holds two Michelin stars under Rocco De Santis, a 24-seat dining room inside a 6th-century Byzantine tower above the centro storico rooftops.
Signature: Pigeon and Yuzu, Mediterranean Risotto, Tasting menu
Order: The pigeon and yuzu signature and the Mediterranean risotto from the tasting carte.
Tip: Book six weeks ahead. The 10-course tasting is €260; €170 for the shorter 7-course set.
Modern Tuscan€€€san-frediano
io Osteria Personale in Florence's San Frediano is Nicolo Baretti's modern-Tuscan tasting room, with the choose-your-own four-or-five course format and a 200-strong natural-wine cellar since 2010.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e funghi, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The choose-your-own four-course tasting and any tortelli or pigeon course on the carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; dinner only. Build the tasting around the maitre's wine suggestions.
Florentine trattoria€€campo-di-marte
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening service and a daily lunch carte for locals.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: The Friday-night bistecca tasting if you can book; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
Florentine trattoria€€san-lorenzo
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's Mercato Centrale square has run the family trattoria since 1977, with a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace and the full Florentine carte from ribollita to bistecca.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Tagliatelle al cinghiale
Order: The full Tuscan tasting tray, then bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. Book the terrace three days ahead for summer; lunch is the easier service.
Florentine, wine-led€€centro-storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico and Brunello producers.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Tagliere di salumi, Carpaccio di manzo
Order: Pici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
Modern Tuscan fine dining€€€€oltrarno
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern Tuscan tasting menu since 1995.
Signature: Risotto, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.