Florentine trattoria€€campo-di-marte
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening service and a daily lunch carte for locals.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: The Friday-night bistecca tasting if you can book; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
Florentine trattoria€€san-lorenzo
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's Mercato Centrale square has run the family trattoria since 1977, with a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace and the full Florentine carte from ribollita to bistecca.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Tagliatelle al cinghiale
Order: The full Tuscan tasting tray, then bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. Book the terrace three days ahead for summer; lunch is the easier service.
Florentine, wine-led€€centro-storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico and Brunello producers.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Tagliere di salumi, Carpaccio di manzo
Order: Pici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
Modern Tuscan fine dining€€€€oltrarno
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern Tuscan tasting menu since 1995.
Signature: Risotto, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.
Florentine, Tuscan€€sant-ambrogio
Cibreo Trattoria in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio quarter is Fabio Picchi's no-pasta trattoria, the casual side of the Cibreo group. The polpettine and the pappa al pomodoro run the menu since 1989.
Signature: Trippa alla fiorentina, Pappa al pomodoro, Polpettine di pollo
Order: Polpettine di pollo, pappa al pomodoro and the trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: No reservations and no pasta on the menu. Queue from 19:45 for the 20:00 first seating; lunch is the calmer service.
Florentine trattoria€€santa-maria-novella
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pollo al burro, Tortino di carciofi
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.
