Italian American at its most stubborn. Espresso bars, red-sauce rooms, and Tony Gemignani throwing pizzas a block from City Lights bookstore.
Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.
Signature: Cioppino for two, Linguine vongole, Sand dabs
Order: The cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.
Tip: Wear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.
Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.
Signature: Lazy Man's cioppino, Dungeness crab cocktail, Whole grilled petrale sole
Order: Lazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.
Tony's Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco is Tony Gemignani's North Beach room, with 13 ovens running 7 pizza styles and a long list of World Pizza Cup wins.
Signature: Margherita STG, Cal Italia, Detroit-style
Order: Margherita STG, limited to 73 a day and cooked at 900 degrees.
Tip: The Margherita STG is capped at 73 per day; arrive at 17:00 to lock one in or expect a sell-out by 19:30.
Park Tavern in San Francisco is Anna Weinberg's Washington Square sister to Marlowe and the Cavalier, with the same burger and a steady neighbourhood pulse.
Signature: Marlowe burger, Brussels sprout chips, Roast chicken
Order: The Marlowe burger with Cabot cheddar on a pretzel bun.
Tip: Sunday roast lunch sells out by 14:00; book two weeks ahead for a window seat onto the square.