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PizzaNorth Beach
Tony's Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco is Tony Gemignani's North Beach room, with 13 ovens running 7 pizza styles and a long list of World Pizza Cup wins.
OrderMargherita STG, limited to 73 a day and cooked at 900 degrees.
TipThe Margherita STG is capped at 73 per day; arrive at 17:00 to lock one in or expect a sell-out by 19:30.
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ItalianThe Mission
Delfina in San Francisco is Craig and Annie Stoll's Mission trattoria, open since 1998, with a Tuscan-leaning pasta board and a roast chicken benchmark.
OrderSpaghetti with plum tomatoes; the Annie Stoll pasta on the menu since 1998.
TipPizzeria Delfina next door takes walk-ins and serves the same pizza dough; faster on a Friday.
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ItalianThe Mission
Flour + Water in San Francisco is Thomas McNaughton's Mission pasta-and-pizza house, with a daily handmade pasta board and a Neapolitan oven up front.
OrderThe 5-course pasta tasting, the room's house format since 2009.
TipThe pasta tasting is the move; ordering pasta a la carte costs the same and gives you less.
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AmericanNorth Beach
Park Tavern in San Francisco is Anna Weinberg's Washington Square sister to Marlowe and the Cavalier, with the same burger and a steady neighbourhood pulse.
OrderThe Marlowe burger with Cabot cheddar on a pretzel bun.
TipSunday roast lunch sells out by 14:00; book two weeks ahead for a window seat onto the square.
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SeafoodEmbarcadero
Fog Harbor Fish House in San Francisco is the Pier 39 upstairs room with strong clam chowder among the Wharf options, plus a long crab list in winter.
OrderClam chowder in a sourdough bowl with a view of the sea lions.
TipBook the 18:00 window seating for the sunset over Alcatraz; it is the room's whole selling point.
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GreekHayes Valley
Souvla in San Francisco is a counter-service Greek spit-fired meat sandwich house with four sites citywide, and the Hayes Valley original is the test kitchen.
OrderLamb sandwich with horiatiki salad and a frozen yogurt with olive oil.
TipThe 12:30 lunch line is faster than 13:00; order ahead via the app to skip it altogether.