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Modern AmericanThe Mission
True Laurel in San Francisco is Lazy Bear's sister cocktail-and-snack bar in the Mission, with David Barzelay's kitchen plates and a strong drinks list.
OrderCrispy brassicas and the cocktail tasting at the bar.
TipThe bar takes walk-ins; book the dining room only if you want the bigger plates.
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ItalianLower Pac Heights
Che Fico in San Francisco is David Nayfeld's Roman-leaning Italian on Divisadero, with Roman-Jewish artichokes, real Vesuvian pizza and a long Italian wine.
OrderRoman-Jewish artichokes in spring, the pizza alla diavola otherwise.
TipThe downstairs Che Fico Alimentari is the lunch counter with the same pasta at half the price.
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CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.
OrderWhatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.
TipTuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.
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New AmericanThe Mission
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a dinner party for 40 guests across two communal tables.
OrderThe bread course with the cultured butter; ten years on it is still the marker.
TipTickets release on the 1st of each month for 60 days out; sign up to the email waitlist for advance notice.
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Modern Mexican TastingSoma Yerba Buena
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting room, 16 seats, the most cerebral table in the city right now.
OrderWhatever the corn course is on the night; the kitchen sources nixtamal heirloom corns directly.
TipThere is only one seating a night; book six weeks out for any Friday or Saturday.
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Cantonese Dim SumSoma Yerba Buena
Yank Sing in San Francisco is the Chan family's Cantonese dim sum institution since 1958, with a SoMa flagship and weekend lines that run to 90 minutes.
OrderShanghai dumplings: the kitchen's most-ordered cart item for decades.
TipThe Stevenson Street original is smaller and quieter; book the Spear Street flagship only if you want carts.