The Mission is where the burrito got its modern shape and where natural wine and taquerias share the same block. Loud, sunny, late.
Tartine Manufactory in San Francisco is Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt's larger Mission site, with bread, pastry, plates and a wine bar under one roof.
Signature: Country loaf, Morning bun, Wood-oven pizza
Order: The morning bun and a country loaf to take home.
Tip: Skip the queue at the Guerrero Street original; the Manufactory has the same bakes plus a sit-down kitchen.
Foreign Cinema in San Francisco is the Mission's open-air courtyard room from Gayle Pirie and John Clark, with a film projected on the back wall after dark.
Signature: Pomegranate-glazed lamb, Brunch oysters, Fried chicken
Order: Brunch fried chicken with cornmeal waffle, between a 10:30 oyster start.
Tip: Brunch on a sunny Saturday is the move; book the courtyard, not the indoor room.
True Laurel in San Francisco is Lazy Bear's sister cocktail-and-snack bar in the Mission, with David Barzelay's kitchen plates and a strong drinks list.
Signature: Caviar service, Burger, Brassicas
Order: Crispy brassicas and the cocktail tasting at the bar.
Tip: The bar takes walk-ins; book the dining room only if you want the bigger plates.
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a dinner party for 40 guests across two communal tables.
Signature: Communal tasting, Crispy duck, Bread course
Order: The bread course with the cultured butter; ten years on it is still the marker.
Tip: Tickets release on the 1st of each month for 60 days out; sign up to the email waitlist for advance notice.
La Taqueria in San Francisco is Miguel Jara's Mission taqueria, James Beard America's Classic, with no-rice burritos and doubled corn tacos since 1973.
Signature: Carnitas burrito (no rice), Carne asada tacos
Order: The dorado-style burrito: rolled, then crisped on the plancha with a sear.
Tip: Cash and card accepted; the line moves fast even at 13:00 because each taquero builds with both hands.
El Farolito in San Francisco is the Mission's all-night taqueria, opened in 1980 on 24th and Mission, with the super burrito that set the modern bar.
Signature: Super burrito, Quesadilla suiza, Al pastor tacos
Order: Super burrito al pastor with everything, plus a horchata.
Tip: Open until 02:30 on Friday and Saturday; the 23:00 to 01:00 window has the fastest line of the night.
La Cumbre in San Francisco is the Valencia Street taqueria credited with the modern Mission burrito format, founded by the Duran family in 1972.
Signature: Carne asada burrito, Pollo tacos, Pinto beans
Order: Carne asada super burrito, the room's invention from 1972.
Tip: Pinto over black beans here; the kitchen renders pork fat into the pintos and they sing.
Delfina in San Francisco is Craig and Annie Stoll's Mission trattoria, open since 1998, with a Tuscan-leaning pasta board and a roast chicken benchmark.
Signature: Spaghetti with plum tomatoes, Roast chicken, Tripe alla fiorentina
Order: Spaghetti with plum tomatoes; the Annie Stoll pasta on the menu since 1998.
Tip: Pizzeria Delfina next door takes walk-ins and serves the same pizza dough; faster on a Friday.
Flour + Water in San Francisco is Thomas McNaughton's Mission pasta-and-pizza house, with a daily handmade pasta board and a Neapolitan oven up front.
Signature: Tasting of pasta, Wood-fired pizza, Whole-grain bread
Order: The 5-course pasta tasting, the room's house format since 2009.
Tip: The pasta tasting is the move; ordering pasta a la carte costs the same and gives you less.
Taqueria Cancun in San Francisco is the Mission taqueria on 16th and Mission, the baseline burrito mojado the city falls back on, open late every night.
Signature: Burrito mojado, Al pastor super burrito, Carne asada quesadilla
Order: The burrito mojado, smothered in three sauces (guacamole, sour cream, salsa roja) and a side of horchata.
Tip: Mission and 16th is the busiest of the three locations; the 24th Street branch at 3211 Mission has a shorter line at lunch.
Taqueria San Jose in San Francisco is a Mission taqueria serving Jalisco-style cabeza, lengua and al pastor on doubled corn tortillas since 1980.
Signature: Cabeza taco, Lengua burrito, Carnitas taco
Order: A trio of cabeza, lengua and al pastor on doubled corn tortillas, with a horchata.
Tip: Half a block from the 24th Street BART; the new 2839 Mission space sits across from the original storefront.
Taqueria El Buen Sabor in San Francisco is a family-run Valencia Street taqueria at Valencia and 18th, serving the Mission since 1995 at sub-twelve-dollar prices.
Signature: Carne asada super burrito, Al pastor tacos, Tortas
Order: The carne asada super burrito with everything and a cold horchata.
Tip: Open 11:00 to 21:30 daily; busiest at 13:00, quieter for an early dinner at 17:00.