Also: Casual Dining in Cordoba
Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Córdoba actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Córdoba actually eats.
Taberna Salinas has run off Córdoba's Corredera since 1924, an azulejo bar backed by wine casks and a patio full of plants and old paintings.
Signature: Salmorejo cordobés, Flamenquín, Berenjenas fritas con miel de caña, Rabo de toro
Order: The salmorejo, the version most cordobeses measure the others against.
Tip: It shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
Casa El Pisto has stood on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where the pisto with a fried egg is the house test.
Signature: Pisto casero con huevo, Rabo de toro, Ensaladilla rusa, Callos
Order: Pisto casero con huevo, the plate that gave the taberna its nickname.
Tip: The operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
Taberna La Montillana has traded on Calle San Álvaro in Córdoba since 1948, bull heads on the walls and Montilla-Moriles wines behind the bar.
Signature: Croquetas de jamón, Mazamorra, Flamenquín cordobés
Order: Mazamorra, the almond purée that predates salmorejo in this city.
Tip: The kitchen rotates a recommendation board, so read it before ordering off the printed carta.
Taberna La Viuda works the San Basilio side of Córdoba with more than thirty plates, cheese-stuffed flamenquín among them, and citrus-cured tuna.
Signature: Flamenquín de queso La Viuda, Atún marinado en cítricos
Order: The flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
Tip: San Basilio wins most of the patio prizes in May, so book here well ahead during the festival.
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
Signature: Montilla-Moriles by the glass, Cordobés tapas
Order: A copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
Tip: The staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
Taberna La Fuenseca sits on Calle Juan Rufo in Córdoba, a wooden-bar house on the city's historic-taberna register pouring fino en rama by the copa.
Signature: Fino en rama, Cordobés tapas
Order: Fino en rama, poured cold, with whatever is on the tapa board.
Tip: The kitchen stops at 23:00 and the place shuts Mondays, so it is an early-evening rather than late stop.
Taberna Regina keeps a corner of Plaza de Regina in Córdoba, one of the houses on the city's historic-taberna register, pouring Montilla-Moriles.
Signature: Montilla-Moriles generosos, Cordobés tapas
Order: An amontillado with a plate of whatever the bar is frying.
Tip: The midday service runs Wednesday to Sunday and the only dinner sittings are Friday and Saturday, so plan an evening visit for the weekend.
Barra y Mesa is a small wooden-counter taberna in central Córdoba pouring Montilla-Moriles beside salmorejo, flamenquín and slow-cooked rabo de toro.
Signature: Salmorejo, Flamenquín, Rabo de toro
Order: Rabo de toro, cooked down until the meat leaves the bone on its own.
Tip: It closes on Sunday and serves dinner Wednesday to Saturday only, and the room is small enough that a booking matters.
La Taberna de Almodóvar pours fino en rama over a wooden bar in central Córdoba, with salmorejo and flamenquín run as the everyday counter order.
Signature: Salmorejo, Flamenquín
Order: Salmorejo first, then the flamenquín, in that order and no other.
Tip: Sunday is lunch only, and the kitchen shuts firmly at 16:30 before the evening service.
La Taberna de Trasmallo has worked Avenida Doctor Fleming in Córdoba since 2009, a wooden-bar room pouring fino en rama beside the city's standards.
Signature: Salmorejo, Flamenquín, Rabo de toro
Order: Flamenquín with a copa of fino en rama alongside.
Tip: It runs straight through from midday, which makes it useful in the dead hours when tabernas shut.