Córdoba opens more than fifty private courtyards to the street for a fortnight every May, a UNESCO-listed festival with neighbourhood bars pouring Montilla-Moriles beside the geraniums.
Tip: San Basilio wins most of the prizes, so book a table in the barrio weeks before you travel.
Neighbourhood associations raise flower-covered crosses in Córdoba's squares and set up temporary bars beside them, serving local tapas and wine for five days around the turn of May.
Tip: The bars beside the crosses are run by residents' associations, so prices stay well below taberna level.
Córdoba's feria fills thirty hectares of El Arenal beside the Guadalquivir with casetas, and unlike Seville almost every one of them admits the public freely.
Tip: The lighting ceremony opens the ground on the Friday night before the first full day of the feria.
Montilla, forty-five minutes south of Córdoba, marks the Montilla-Moriles harvest with grape-treading, a named honorary capataz and bodega tastings across the town every September.
Tip: This runs in Montilla rather than in Córdoba city, so plan it as a day trip with the train or a car.
Córdoba opens more than fifty private courtyards to the street for a fortnight every May, a UNESCO-listed festival with neighbourhood bars pouring Montilla-Moriles beside the geraniums.
Tip: San Basilio wins most of the prizes, so book a table in the barrio weeks before you travel.