Eat in Santa Marina, Córdoba

Taberna Regina ★ 4.1

Taberna Regina keeps a corner of Plaza de Regina in Córdoba, one of the houses on the city's historic-taberna register, pouring Montilla-Moriles.

OrderAn amontillado with a plate of whatever the bar is frying.

TipThe midday service runs Wednesday to Sunday and the only dinner sittings are Friday and Saturday, so plan an evening visit for the weekend.

Taberna Regina ★ 4.1

Taberna Regina holds a corner of Plaza de Regina in Córdoba, a registered historic taberna pouring Montilla-Moriles generosos to a mostly local room.

OrderAn amontillado with a plate of whatever the bar is frying.

PourAn amontillado from the house range

WineMontilla-Moriles generosos by the copa

FoodCordobés tapas

TipThe copa hour is midday Wednesday to Sunday, with an evening pour on Friday and Saturday only.

Mercado del Marrubial ★ 4.2

The Marrubial is Córdoba's biggest municipal market, forty-five trading pitches with ten fishmongers and, unusually, a stall selling nothing but snails.

OrderCaracoles from the market's own caracolero, in the spring snail season.

TipTen fishmongers in a landlocked city is a direct product of the Mercacórdoba wholesale platform.

Taberna Regina ★ 4.1

Taberna Regina opened on its small Córdoba plaza in 1904 and still serves albóndigas de la abuela and a flamenquín stuffed with rabo de toro.

OrderAlbóndigas de la abuela, then the rabo de toro flamenquín.

TipIt shuts Monday and Tuesday and serves dinner on Friday and Saturday only, so a midweek evening walk-in finds the door closed.

Taberna Regina ★ 4.1

Taberna Regina has held its corner of a quiet Córdoba plaza since 1904, off every standard walking route and open mainly for the midday service.

Why locals goIt sits on a small plaza that no standard Mezquita-to-Corredera walking route passes, and it trades mostly at lunchtime, five days a week.

TipThe taberna shuts Monday and Tuesday and opens for dinner on Friday and Saturday only, so time a midweek visit for the midday service.

Mercado del Marrubial ★ 4.2

The Marrubial is the biggest municipal market in Córdoba and sees no tourist trade at all, forty-five pitches including a stall selling only snails.

Why locals goIt is the only market in Córdoba with a dedicated snail stall among its pitches, and it runs ten fishmongers in a landlocked city.

TipGo before 11:00 if you want the fish counters at their best; everything shuts at 14:00.