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AndalusianCentro
Taberna Góngora is the family taberna on Conde de Torres Cabrera in Córdoba, adapting most of its carta for coeliacs on a separate chickpea-flour fryer.
OrderRabo de toro, then boquerones, both at taberna prices.
TipIt closes Tuesday and Sunday, an awkward pair that catches out anyone planning a long weekend.
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AndalusianCentro
Casa El Pisto has fed Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where a plate of pisto with a fried egg costs almost nothing.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, then the ensaladilla rusa.
TipThe operator publishes lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than dinner.
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AndalusianCentro
Taberna Coto has traded in Córdoba since 1972 and now sits on Plaza de San Miguel, serving lomo en manteca colorá that tourist kitchens have dropped.
OrderLomo en manteca colorá, then berenjenas con miel de caña.
TipIt publishes no hours anywhere and closes Tuesdays, so phone before you build a plan around it.
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AndalusianJuderia
Taberna Rafaé has worked Calle Deanes in Córdoba's Judería since 1977, a bodega-taberna running more than eighty classic plates at taberna prices.
OrderWhatever the bodega board recommends; the carta runs past eighty plates.
TipIt advertises itself as open every day but publishes no clock times, so call ahead in low season.
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AndalusianSanta Marina
Taberna Regina opened on its small Córdoba plaza in 1904 and still serves albóndigas de la abuela and a flamenquín stuffed with rabo de toro.
OrderAlbóndigas de la abuela, then the rabo de toro flamenquín.
TipIt shuts Monday and Tuesday and serves dinner on Friday and Saturday only, so a midweek evening walk-in finds the door closed.
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AndalusianSan Lorenzo
Taberna Casa Luis faces the rose window of San Lorenzo in Córdoba, a neighbourhood room built on pescaíto frito, callos and other home-kitchen plates.
OrderPescaíto frito, the plate the barrio has always come here to eat.
TipNo hours are published anywhere, so treat an evening visit as a gamble unless you phone first.
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AndalusianCentro
Taberna La Montillana has run beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and is one of the very few kitchens in the city still serving mazamorra.
OrderMazamorra, the white almond soup that came before salmorejo.
TipThe operator writes its closing time as until close rather than a clock hour, so late arrivals are a gamble.
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AndalusianJuderia
Taberna El Abanico is the small flower-hung tapas room on Velázquez Bosco in Córdoba, a few metres north of the Mezquita and open seven days a week.
OrderAsk the counter what came in that morning; the carta is short and changes.
TipThe operator runs three sites; Velázquez Bosco 7 is the original Mezquita branch, not the Ribera one.
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AndalusianSan Basilio
Taberna La Viuda runs more than thirty tapas and raciones in San Basilio in Córdoba, including a flamenquín stuffed with cheese rather than ham.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipIt opens all seven days with a full split service, rare in a barrio where most rooms take a day off.
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AndalusianCorredera
Taberna Salinas serves salmorejo, flamenquín and fried aubergine off Córdoba's Corredera, in a barrel-lined room the Salinas family took on in 1924.
OrderSalmorejo, then flamenquines de jamón serrano.
TipAn earlier tavern stood here from 1879; the Salinas family business itself dates from 1924.
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MediterraneanCorredera
El Astronauta cooks mezze and a full plant-based section in central Córdoba, a vegan moussaka and vegan burger alongside the standard carta.
OrderThe vegan moussaka, or the mezze spread if there are several of you.
TipThe operator publishes no hours, though the Córdoba directories agree it shuts on Sunday, so phone ahead before building a plan.