Day-by-day eating plans for Córdoba. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Day-by-day plans

Córdoba weekend: the taberna register, walked ★ 4.7

First-time visitor, two days2 days

Two days built around the tabernas the city's heritage register declares historic, with one Michelin dinner, a morning at the Corredera market and salmorejo measured against itself.

  1. Day 1: Friday: Judería morning, Corredera lunch, San Lorenzo dinner

    Morning
    Coffee at Hygge Cafe from 07:30 on Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, then jeringos and chocolate at Mojaelchurro further along the same street before it shuts at 13:00.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Taberna Salinas off the Corredera at 13:30 for salmorejo, flamenquín and fried aubergine. Afterwards a copa of fino at Bodega Guzmán on Calle Judíos.
    Evening
    Dinner at La Cuchara de San Lorenzo at 20:30 for artichokes with jamón and rabo de toro, then a nightcap at La Bicicleta, open until 01:00.

  2. Day 2: Saturday: market morning, San Basilio lunch, Michelin dinner

    Morning
    Mercado de la Corredera from 08:00 for the fish counters and the Zurera spice stall, then a pastel cordobés at Obrador San Rafael on Calle Alfayatas.
    Afternoon
    Cross to San Basilio for lunch at Taberna La Viuda at 13:30, the cheese flamenquín and citrus-cured tuna, then walk the patio streets.
    Evening
    Dinner at Choco on Calle Compositor Serrano Lucena, thirty covers and one sitting, booked weeks ahead. Note it closes for all of August.

Córdoba for salmorejo and Montilla-Moriles ★ 4.6

Second visit, three days, drink-led3 days

Three days spent comparing salmorejo across the city and drinking the Montilla-Moriles scale from bone-dry fino to black Pedro Ximénez, ending with a day trip south to the bodega towns.

  1. Day 1: Friday: a natural glass, three salmorejos and a fino crawl

    Morning
    JUGO Vinos Vivos on Plaza de San Andrés from 11:00 for a natural bottle by the glass, cheese and sourdough, before the counter shuts for the midday break at 14:00.
    Afternoon
    First salmorejo at La Salmoreteca inside the Mercado Victoria when it opens at 12:00, a second at Regadera on Ronda de Isasa with the river outside, then a third at Bodegas Campos on Calle Lineros for the version that has not changed in a century.
    Evening
    Fino at Bodega Guzmán, an Oro Viejo at Sociedad de Plateros San Francisco, and Pedro Ximénez to finish at Vinoteca Ordóñez.

  2. Day 2: Saturday: the older dishes

    Morning
    Jeringos at Churrería Victoria on Avenida Doctor Fleming, which fries until 12:30 on a Saturday and does no merienda service at the weekend, so go early.
    Afternoon
    Mazamorra at Taberna La Montillana on Calle San Álvaro, the white almond soup that came before salmorejo, then pisto with a fried egg at Casa El Pisto on the plaza opposite.
    Evening
    Dinner at Ermita de la Candelaria in the converted hermitage for albóndigas in almond sauce, a sauce thickened the medieval way.

  3. Day 3: Sunday: a barrio churrería and the last taberna

    Morning
    Jeringos and chocolate at Churrería Arroyo de San Andrés, a residential-barrio counter open 08:00 to 14:30 at weekends, before the walk into the Judería.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Casa Pepe de la Judería on Calle Romero for mazamorra and rabo de toro, taken on the roof terrace facing the Mezquita tower.
    Evening
    A last copa on the Balcón de Córdoba roof terrace before it shuts at 20:00, then dinner at La Taberna del Río, which serves until midnight.

Córdoba without meat ★ 4.3

Vegetarian or vegan, two days2 days

Two days proving that a city built on jamón and oxtail still feeds people who do not eat either, using the Andalusi vegetable kitchen, the Middle Eastern rooms and the market stalls.

  1. Day 1: Friday: coffee, aubergine and two mezze tables

    Morning
    Coffee and a pastry at Tueste Specialty Coffee on Calle Deanes, then a walk through the Judería before the heat.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at El Astronauta on Calle Diario de Córdoba for the vegan moussaka and a mezze spread. Aubergine with cane syrup afterwards at Taberna Coto.
    Evening
    Dinner at La Casa Siria on Calle Lucano, open straight through to 23:00, for a full Syrian mezze table.

  2. Day 2: Saturday: market stalls and the Sephardic kitchen

    Morning
    Mercado Victoria from midday, when the hall opens: one of La Salmoreteca's dozen salmorejos, asked for without the jamón and egg that normally top it, and a baked potato at Crazy Potato.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Casa Mazal in the Judería, a fourteenth-century house cooking Sephardic and Andalusi food with no pork on the carta at all.
    Evening
    Dinner at Amaltea on Ronda de Isasa, which runs separate vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free cartas alongside the main one.
← Back to Córdoba food guide