The Guadalquivir waterfront from the Roman Bridge to the Molino de la Albolafia, with Bodegas Campos a few streets inland and terraces facing the water at sunset.
Bodegas Campos has poured in Córdoba since 1908, a warren of patios and barrel-signed rooms off Calle Lineros serving rabo de toro and salmorejo.
Signature: Rabo de toro, Salmorejo, Flamenquín
Order: Rabo de toro, the dish the house has cooked for over a century.
Tip: Ask to walk through the barrel rooms before you sit; the signed butts are a century of visiting names.
La Taberna del Río works a corner off Córdoba's Paseo de la Ribera, rotating art on the walls and a summer roof terrace above the Guadalquivir.
Signature: Croquetas, Risotto de rabo de toro
Order: The rabo de toro risotto, the kitchen's own crossing of two traditions.
Tip: The kitchen runs straight through from 13:00 to midnight, rare in a city that closes between services.
Amaltea has cooked on Córdoba's Ronda de Isasa since 2000, a Mediterranean kitchen built on garden vegetables and Andalusian extra virgin olive oil.
Signature: Garden vegetables, Extra virgin olive oil dishes
Order: Ask what the vegetable dish of the day is; that is where the kitchen puts its effort.
Tip: It runs separate vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free cartas alongside the main one, so say what you need when you sit.
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
Signature: Montilla-Moriles by the glass, Cordobés tapas
Order: A copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
Tip: The staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
Sojo Ribera runs latest of anywhere in Córdoba, a mixology room and river terrace on the Paseo de la Ribera that holds on until 04:00 at weekends.
Try: Bar snacks
Order: A house cocktail on the terrace before the room turns into a club.
Tip: Closed Sunday to Tuesday, and the summer schedule starts later than the winter one.
Regadera sits on Córdoba's Ronda de Isasa with the Guadalquivir outside, Adrián Caballero cooking cordobés classics from a kitchen open to the room.
Signature: Salmorejo, Flamenquín
Order: The salmorejo, then the flamenquín, both rebuilt rather than reinvented.
Tip: The riverside tables go first at sunset, so ask for one when you book rather than on arrival.
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
Signature: Montilla-Moriles by the glass, Cordobés tapas
Order: A copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
Tip: The staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
The silversmiths' guild taberna on Calle San Francisco in Córdoba pours its own Montilla-Moriles labels around a patio set under a glass roof.
Signature pour: Oro Viejo, one of the house labels
Wine focus: The guild's own Montilla-Moriles labels
Food: Cordobés tapas with a documented coeliac protocol
Order: A copa of Oro Viejo, the guild's own bottling.
Tip: Tell the staff if you are coeliac; they swap every round plate on the table for a square one.
Sojo Ribera runs a mixology room and first-floor terrace over the Guadalquivir in Córdoba, facing the Roman Bridge and the Torre de la Calahorra.
Signature drink: House cocktails built around Córdoba's history
Food: Bar snacks
Order: A house cocktail on the upstairs terrace at dusk.
Tip: The published summer schedule is tighter than the winter one, and the room does not open Sunday to Tuesday.
Córdoba a Pie runs a two-hour private tapas walk from Plaza del Potro to the Mezquita, three tapas, three drinks and a dessert included, leaving at 19:30.
Tip: Departures are at 19:30 and the price drops to €25 for children aged two to ten.
Córdoba's feria fills thirty hectares of El Arenal beside the Guadalquivir with casetas, and unlike Seville almost every one of them admits the public freely.
Tip: The lighting ceremony opens the ground on the Friday night before the first full day of the feria.
Sojo Ribera runs latest of anywhere in Córdoba, a mixology room and river terrace on the Paseo de la Ribera that holds on until 04:00 at weekends.
Try: Bar snacks
Order: A house cocktail on the terrace before the room turns into a club.
Tip: Closed Sunday to Tuesday, and the summer schedule starts later than the winter one.
La Taberna del Río serves until midnight every day by Córdoba's Paseo de la Ribera, one of few kitchens here that never breaks for the afternoon.
Try: Croquetas, rabo de toro risotto
Order: The rabo de toro risotto, ordered late with a glass of red.
Tip: It runs straight through from 13:00, so it also covers the dead hours other kitchens miss.
Sojo Ribera turns from cocktail room to dance floor as the night runs on, a first-floor terrace over the Guadalquivir facing the Roman Bridge.
Tip: Fridays open at 17:00 and Saturdays at 16:00, both running to 04:00.