Tamales Dona Emi in Mexico City is the Roma Norte morning tamal cart on the corner of Alvaro Obregon and Cordoba, the weekday breakfast stand that wraps verde, rojo, mole and sweet tamales by 11:00.
Must order: A guajolota (tamal in a torta) with atole de fresa; one tamal mole on the side.
Tip: Open until the masa is gone, usually by noon. Cash only; the regulars start queueing at 07:30 on weekdays.
Address: Esquina Av. Alvaro Obregon and Calle Cordoba, Roma Norte, Cuauhtemoc, 06700 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Hipodromo Condesa evening cart on Citlaltepetl at Insurgentes Sur, a long-running esquites stand that ladles styrofoam cups past 22:00 with the classic mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime garnish.
Try: Esquites and elotes
Order: Esquites with mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime; an elote on the cob to go.
Tip: Cash only; an esquite goes for about 40 pesos. The cart is mobile; check Instagram for the night's exact corner.
Churreria El Moro in Mexico City is the 1935 Centro Historico churros counter on Eje Central, the 24-hour churro and chocolate window that still pipes hot churros out the same fryer past midnight.
Try: Churros con chocolate
Order: A half-dozen churros with chocolate espanol (the thickest of the four chocolates on offer).
Tip: The Centro flagship runs 24 hours. The newer Roma branches close at midnight; visit the original for the relic counter.
Tortas El Cuadrilatero in Mexico City is the Centro torta counter on Luis Moya owned by Super Astro the luchador, walls covered in masks and the menu built around the kilogram Gladiador torta challenge.
Try: Lucha-libre tortas
Order: The Gladiador kilogram torta if you can; otherwise the regular Pierna with chipotle and queso Oaxaca.
Tip: Closed Sundays; the Gladiador is free if you finish in 15 minutes. Cash only and arrive hungry.
Tostadas Coyoacan in Mexico City is the cluster of yellow-and-orange-signed tostada stalls inside Mercado de Coyoacan on Ignacio Allende, the city's most-photographed tostada counter near the Frida Kahlo Museum.
Try: Tostadas de mariscos and tinga
Order: One tostada de pulpo; one tostada de tinga; a tostada de pata.
Tip: Arrive before 14:00 for the freshest mariscos and to avoid the post-Frida crowd. Cash only; tostadas run 60 to 90 pesos each.
El Huequito in Mexico City is the 1959 Centro Historico al pastor stand on Ayuntamiento, one of the earliest taqueria operations to plate the trompo-cut pork that defines the city's signature taco.
Try: Tacos al pastor
Order: Three tacos al pastor with the house red salsa; a pina (pineapple) agua fresca on the side.
Tip: The original Ayuntamiento alley counter is barely a window in the wall; sit-down branches now run across the city but the original counter is the relic.
El Tizoncito in Mexico City is the 1966 Condesa taqueria on Tamaulipas that claims to have invented the modern tacos al pastor served on a small corn tortilla with pineapple shaved from the trompo.
Try: Tacos al pastor
Order: Four tacos al pastor con pina; a side of grilled green onions.
Tip: The Tamaulipas original holds the strictest quality control; the sister branches scattered across Polanco and other neighbourhoods are looser.
