Fonda Fina in Mexico City is the Roma Norte modern fonda on Medellin from chef Juan Cabrera, a daytime Mexican kitchen that updates traditional Mexico City home cooking with a tasting-menu format.
Signature dishes: Sopa de mariscos, Pescado a la veracruzana, Mole de la casa
Must order: Sopa de mariscos; whichever guisado fills the chef's plate that day; the daily mole.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the dining room runs more festively on Saturdays. Closed Monday.
Address: Av. Medellin 79, Roma Norte, Cuauhtemoc, 06700 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name on the tuna tostada and the split-color pescado a la talla.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
Lalo in Mexico City is chef Eduardo Garcia's all-day Roma Norte counter on Zacatecas since 2014, the Maximo Bistrot casual sister with communal tables and breakfast that runs to noon.
Signature: Huevos rancheros, Chilaquiles, Croque-madame
Order: The huevos con chorizo; the chilaquiles verdes; a Mexican wine by the glass.
Tip: Walks-ins only; arrive before 09:00 weekends or expect a wait. Closed for full service Sunday afternoon.
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Centro Historico courtyard kitchen at the Downtown Mexico hotel, the regional Mexican mole specialist with seats under the Indian laurel.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: Mole negro from Oaxaca; cochinita pibil tacos; an agua fresca de la temporada.
Tip: The open courtyard table closest to the fountain is the seat; brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends. Walk-ins land most weekdays.
Maque in Mexico City is the Condesa morning room on Ozuluama that pairs handmade pan dulce with chilaquiles and huevos divorciados, a regular Sunday brunch stop on the Parque Mexico spine.
Signature: Chilaquiles, Pan dulce, Huevos con tasajo
Order: Chilaquiles verdes with chicken; a concha de vainilla; cafe de olla.
Tip: Daily 07:30 to 22:00. Walks-ins fill by 09:30 Sunday; arrive earlier or expect a 30 minute wait for the patio.
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name on the tuna tostada and the split-color pescado a la talla.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' all-day Condesa room on Agustin Melgar since 2015, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta that runs from morning eggs to late dinner pasta.
Signature: Wood-fired flatbreads, Pasta, Brunch plates
Order: The wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
Tip: Open from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins easier at 11:00 weekdays than 14:00.
Lalo in Mexico City is chef Eduardo Garcia's all-day Roma Norte counter on Zacatecas since 2014, the Maximo Bistrot casual sister with communal tables and breakfast that runs to noon.
Signature: Huevos rancheros, Chilaquiles, Croque-madame
Order: The huevos con chorizo; the chilaquiles verdes; a Mexican wine by the glass.
Tip: Walks-ins only; arrive before 09:00 weekends or expect a wait. Closed for full service Sunday afternoon.
El Cardenal Centro in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico breakfast room on Palma, the Sunday-morning institution where hot chocolate is frothed tableside with raw-milk nata.
Signature: Hot chocolate, Pan de nata, Chiles en nogada
Order: The hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada in season.
Tip: Sunday brunch fills by 09:30; arrive at opening at 08:00 to avoid the wait. Three other branches across the city.
