Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name on native masa from Oaxaca and Tlaxcala.
Signature dishes: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Must order: The daily handwritten menu; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: Ten counter seats; no reservations. Open Wed-Sun 13:00 to 19:00; arrive at opening with cash.
Address: Yucatan 84, Roma Norte, Cuauhtemoc, 06700 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
Fonda Fina in Mexico City is the Roma Norte modern fonda on Medellin from chef Juan Cabrera, a daytime Mexican kitchen that updates traditional Mexico City home cooking with a tasting-menu format.
Signature: Sopa de mariscos, Pescado a la veracruzana, Mole de la casa
Order: Sopa de mariscos; whichever guisado fills the chef's plate that day; the daily mole.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the dining room runs more festively on Saturdays. Closed Monday.
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name on the tuna tostada and the split-color pescado a la talla.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
Casa de Tono in Mexico City is the citywide pozole and antojitos chain that opens daily and hands out free atole de arroz at the door; the Londres branch in Juarez is the closest sit-down room from Roma and Reforma.
Signature: Pozole blanco, Tostadas, Enchiladas suizas
Order: A bowl of pozole blanco with all the garnishes; a tostada de tinga on the side.
Tip: Open 24 hours at many branches; cash and card accepted. A reliable late-night pozole stop after a long Roma or Centro night.
El Pescadito in Mexico City is the Sonora-import battered-fish taqueria with multiple branches; the Condesa stand on Atlixco runs the standing-counter style with marlin, shrimp and battered fish tacos.
Signature: Tacos de pescado capeado, Tacos de camaron, Marlin tacos
Order: Two tacos de pescado capeado; one taco de camaron; salsa cremosa.
Tip: Stand-up counters; no reservations. Open 12:00 to 22:00 daily. Cash preferred.
Fonda Fina in Mexico City is the Roma Norte modern fonda on Medellin from chef Juan Cabrera, a daytime Mexican kitchen that updates traditional Mexico City home cooking with a tasting-menu format.
Signature: Sopa de mariscos, Pescado a la veracruzana, Mole de la casa
Order: Sopa de mariscos; whichever guisado fills the chef's plate that day; the daily mole.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the dining room runs more festively on Saturdays. Closed Monday.
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Centro Historico courtyard kitchen at the Downtown Mexico hotel, the regional Mexican mole specialist with seats under the Indian laurel.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: Mole negro from Oaxaca; cochinita pibil tacos; an agua fresca de la temporada.
Tip: The open courtyard table closest to the fountain is the seat; brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends. Walk-ins land most weekdays.
Maque in Mexico City is the Condesa morning room on Ozuluama that pairs handmade pan dulce with chilaquiles and huevos divorciados, a regular Sunday brunch stop on the Parque Mexico spine.
Signature: Chilaquiles, Pan dulce, Huevos con tasajo
Order: Chilaquiles verdes with chicken; a concha de vainilla; cafe de olla.
Tip: Daily 07:30 to 22:00. Walks-ins fill by 09:30 Sunday; arrive earlier or expect a 30 minute wait for the patio.
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name on the tuna tostada and the split-color pescado a la talla.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
