Hidalgo Barbacoa$$roma-norte
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend barbacoa pit on Campeche, the maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday through Sunday morning.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: Barbacoa de borrego with consomé and pancita on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00-18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out before noon.
Heirloom-corn Mexican$$roma-norte
Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name on native masa.
Signature: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Order: The daily handwritten menu; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: Ten counter seats; no reservations. Open Wed-Sun 13:00-19:00; arrive at opening with cash.
Mexican$juarez
Casa de Tono in Mexico City is the citywide pozole and antojitos chain that opens daily and hands out free atole de arroz at the door; the Londres branch.
Signature: Pozole blanco, Tostadas, Enchiladas suizas
Order: A bowl of pozole blanco with all the garnishes; a tostada de tinga on the side.
Tip: Open 24 hours at many branches; cash and card accepted. A reliable late-night pozole stop after a long Roma or Centro night.
Taqueria$condesa
El Pescadito in Mexico City is the Sonora-import battered-fish taqueria with multiple branches; the Condesa stand on Atlixco runs the standing-counter style.
Signature: Tacos de pescado capeado, Tacos de camaron, Marlin tacos
Order: Two tacos de pescado capeado; one taco de camaron; salsa cremosa.
Tip: Stand-up counters; no reservations. Open 12:00-22:00 daily. Cash preferred.
Mexican$$roma-norte
Fonda Fina in Mexico City is the Roma Norte modern fonda on Medellin from chef Juan Cabrera, a daytime Mexican kitchen that updates traditional Mexico City.
Signature: Sopa de mariscos, Pescado a la veracruzana, Mole de la casa
Order: Sopa de mariscos; whichever guisado fills the chef's plate that day; the daily mole.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the dining room runs more festively on Saturdays. Closed Monday.
Traditional Mexican$$$centro-historico
Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Centro Historico courtyard kitchen at the Downtown Mexico hotel, the regional Mexican mole.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada
Order: Mole negro from Oaxaca; cochinita pibil tacos; an agua fresca de la temporada.
Tip: The open courtyard table closest to the fountain is the seat; brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends. Walk-ins land most weekdays.