Georgian Dublin south of the Liffey: Merrion Street's Patrick Guilbaud, Grafton Street's Bewley's, and Drury Street's wine-bar row built around Amy Austin and Loose Canon.
Pichet on Trinity Street in Dublin, Stephen Gibson's red-canopied French bistro, Bib Gourmand since 2010 and the city's most reliable pre-theatre.
OrderSteak frites with bearnaise, then the tarte Tatin to share with a glass of Sauternes.
TipLunch at noon is the easy book; pre-theatre at 17:30-18:30 sets you up for the Gaiety. Avoid the back room for two.
Etto on Merrion Row in Dublin, Liz Matthews and Simon Barrett's Italian-leaning Bib Gourmand wine bar, the city's best by-the-glass list at the counter.
OrderThe mackerel and whatever fresh pasta is on, with a Sicilian white from the by-the-glass list.
TipThree counter seats by the open kitchen are first-come; the rest is reservation. Book through the website not OpenTable.
Uno Mas on Aungier Street in Dublin, an all-Spanish Bib Gourmand wine and small-plates room from the Etto team, the south side's most precise tapas.
OrderA round of creamy croquetas and one carabinero per person, with a glass of dry Manzanilla.
TipThe counter seats turn fastest; if the website shows no tables, ask if the bar is open. Closed Sunday and Monday.
BIGFAN on Aungier Street in Dublin, a Michelin Bib Gourmand 2026 Chinese and Taiwanese small-plates room, paper-and-pencil ordering, bao to xiao chi.
OrderWu ya bao with tender pulled beef, a steamer of xiao long bao, plus the cucumber salad in chilli oil.
TipNo bookings before 17:00 Monday to Thursday. The Friday and Saturday afternoon window from 14:00 is when walking in still works.
Amy Austin on Drury Street in Dublin, a thirty-seat Bib Gourmand wine bar inside the car-park entrance, sixteen wines on tap and small plates.
OrderA glass on tap from the daily list, the charcuterie board for two, plus whatever daily special is chalked up.
TipWalk-ins only Monday to Thursday from 17:00. Dog friendly; the back banquette holds four for late.
The Pig's Ear on Nassau Street in Dublin, Stephen McAllister's modern Irish room on three floors overlooking Trinity College, the city's reliable mid-tier.
OrderShepherd's pie at lunch with a glass of red; Irish coffee soufflé to finish.
TipFirst-floor window seats face Trinity's playing fields. The set lunch at €30 for three courses is the value play.
Featherblade on Dawson Street in Dublin, the small-plates steakhouse that built its room around the underused featherblade cut, the city's value steak.
OrderFeatherblade steak with frites and chimichurri; a side of the tallow flatbread.
TipWalk-in seats at the counter run fastest; the back banquette books out Friday and Saturday a week ahead.
Yamamori Izakaya on South Great George's Street in Dublin, the basement izakaya under the long-running ramen room, the city's most credible robata bar.
OrderRobata-grilled mackerel, a round of yakitori, and the basket of karaage to share.
TipThe basement runs late on weekends; the upstairs is the lunch room. Highballs at the back bar are €6 in happy hour.
Drury Buildings on Drury Street in Dublin, a three-floor Italian-leaning dining room and cocktail bar built into the William Fry warehouse, a southside.
OrderCrab linguine and a Negroni Sbagliato from the rooftop bar before dinner.
TipRoof terrace opens summer only; book the first-floor dining room with a window onto Drury Street for two.
Brother Hubbard South on Harrington Street in Dublin 8, Garrett FitzGerald and James Boland's sit-down Middle Eastern room and the all-day brunch reference.
OrderThe shakshuka at brunch, the lamb shawarma at lunch, with a cardamom-bun cinnamon roll to take away.
TipWalk-in only Saturday morning; the queue starts at 09:30. Bookings open Sunday to Friday on the website.
Pickle on Camden Street in Dublin, Sunil Ghai's modern Indian dining room running North Indian classics on Irish produce since 2015, tandoor-forward.
OrderLamb karahi, black daal, naan straight from the tandoor, and a glass of off-dry Riesling.
TipTuesday to Sunday dinner; lunch Friday to Sunday only. Sit at the kitchen counter to watch the tandoor.
Patrick Guilbaud's two-Michelin-star room inside The Merrion hotel on Upper Merrion Street in Dublin, French technique on Irish produce since 1981.
OrderThe lunch menu surprise at a fraction of the dinner ticket, with the Merrion's wine cellar by the glass.
Book3-4 weeks ahead
TipLunch Tuesday to Saturday is the easier book and the same kitchen. Jacket suggested but not enforced for men at dinner.
James Moore's thirteen-course surprise menu inside D'Olier Chambers in Dublin 2, the southside's most precise one-Michelin-star room, opened 2022.
OrderThe thirteen-course tasting at €139, with the wine pairing built on small Irish-import bottles.
Book2-3 weeks ahead
TipCounter seats face the pass and run the same menu, often easier to book than the dining room a week out.
Pearl Brasserie on Merrion Street in Dublin 2, Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt's French dining room across two decades, opposite the Merrion Hotel.
OrderThe pre-theatre menu, three courses for around €50, with the foie gras starter if the season holds it.
Book2 weeks ahead
TipBook a window table on the upper level; the basement booths are warmer for a long winter dinner.
Tang on Dawson Street in Dublin, an all-day Middle Eastern counter, the city's most reliable lunch-grab and weekend brunch in one room. Priced at €.
OrderHalloumi wrap with house slaw and a turmeric latte to go.
TipTwo-floor venue; the basement is the table service room. Walk-in only at lunch; book the basement for weekend brunch.
Bunsen on Wexford Street in Dublin, the chef-built burger that built a five-shop Dublin chain on one menu of beef, cheese and fries, the city's reference.
OrderQuarter-pound cheeseburger with onion, fries and a chocolate milkshake.
TipOne menu, no specials; the smallest tables turn fastest. Late till midnight at the Wexford Street flagship.
Umi Falafel inside George's Street Arcade in Dublin 2, the vegetarian Lebanese counter doing the city's most credible falafel on freshly fried chickpeas.
OrderFalafel wrap with toum and pickles; a mezze plate and a glass of mint tea to share.
TipCounter and a handful of tables inside the Arcade; takeaway runs fastest at lunch. Other Umi branches sit on Mary Street and Rathmines.
The Bald Barista on Aungier Street in Dublin 2, a two-floor specialty espresso bar with sweet treats and upstairs seating, the south-city centre's reliable.
OrderFlat white on the house espresso blend; a slice from the bakery counter.
DrinkFlat white
TipCounter on the ground floor; the seating and toilet are upstairs. Outdoor tables at the front. Closed on Saturday and Sunday in most weeks.
Bewley's Cafe on Grafton Street in Dublin, the Ernest Bewley grand cafe since 1927, restored across three floors, the city's heritage tea-room and lunch room.
OrderThe Bewley's house blend coffee and a sticky bun; an afternoon cream tea upstairs.
DrinkBewley's coffee blend
TipThree floors; the first floor is the historic Harry Clarke window room. The basement Theatre cafe runs lunchtime plays.
Kaph on Drury Street in Dublin 2, an upstairs flat-white room over a Drury Street boutique, the southside's regular specialty espresso bar with quiet booths.
OrderFlat white on the seasonal espresso blend; a Bewley's-style toasted-cheese sandwich.
DrinkFlat white
TipTwo floors of stools; the upstairs window seat has the best Drury Street people-watching. Closes 17:30 weekdays.
Loose Canon on Drury Street in Dublin 2, a low-intervention wine bar pouring small-grower European bottles and toasted-cheese flatbreads, the southside.
PourWhatever Riesling is on the by-the-glass list this week
WineNatural and low-intervention European wines
FoodToasted cheese and charcuterie
TipTwenty-five seats; book the back stools online. The toasted-cheese flatbread is the only menu item, two varieties weekly.
Frank's on Camden Street in Dublin 2, a tiny low-intervention wine bar in a former pork shop with one large communal table, around 100 organic and biodynamic.
PourSancerre or a daily natural orange wine
WineOld World by the glass with a French lean
FoodSnack-shaped small plates
TipWalk-in only daily; the room seats around twenty around the communal table. Arrive early Friday and Saturday.
Amy Austin on Drury Street in Dublin is the Drury Street Car Park wine bar, with sixteen taps and a Bib Gourmand small-plates menu that draws the south-side.
PourItalian white on tap from the daily list
WineSixteen wines on tap plus by-the-bottle range
FoodTapas-style small plates with charcuterie
TipDog-friendly; walk-ins Monday to Thursday from 17:00, Friday and Saturday from 12:30. Back banquette sits four for late.
Note on Fenian Street in Dublin 2, a tiny bistro and wine bar opened in 2022 with a sixty-plus bottle list of natural wines and grower champagnes.
PourBeaujolais cru by the glass
WineNatural French wines, Loire and Beaujolais focus
FoodSnacks and one nightly small plate
TipSmall room four minutes from Pearse Street Station; arrive early Friday and Saturday. Team will recommend a glass from the largely natural list.
Ely Wine Bar on Ely Place in Dublin 2, Erik and Michelle Robson's wine room since 1999, an Old World list and Robson family organic Irish beef from Co Clare.
PourOld World Burgundy by the glass
WineHundred-bottle Old World list, biodynamic emphasis
FoodOrganic Irish meat from the family farm
TipTwo rooms; the basement is wine, the ground floor is the bar. Lunch by-the-glass is the value play.
Fade Street Social in Dublin 2, Dylan McGrath's three-room gastro bar over a Fade Street courtyard, a Mediterranean wine list and small-plates dinner.
PourSpanish Garnacha by the glass
WineMediterranean and modern New World list
FoodGastro bar small plates and steaks
TipRoof terrace opens summer only. The Tapas Bar room is the walk-in option; the restaurant room books two weeks ahead.
Etto on Merrion Row in Dublin 2, a Bib Gourmand Italian-leaning wine bar with the best by-the-glass list south of the Liffey and a kitchen that backs it up.
PourSicilian Frappato by the glass
WineItalian by the glass and bottle
FoodItalian crudo, hand-rolled pasta, small plates
TipCounter seats face the open kitchen; book through the website not OpenTable. Closed Sunday and Monday.
The Long Hall on South Great George's Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian saloon since 1881 with original mahogany and mirror back-bar, the city's best Guinness.
DrinkGuinness
FoodBar snacks and toasties only
TipThe bar runs the length of the room; sit on a stool in the back snug to watch the bar staff work. Cash and card.
Grogan's on South William Street in Dublin 2, the artist's pub since the 1970s, the city's reference for a creamy Guinness and a toasted-cheese-and-ham.
DrinkGuinness with a ham and cheese toastie
FoodToasted cheese and ham toasties only
TipCash and card. The front lounge fills with regulars; the back room is the conversation room. Toasties stop at 18:00.
Peruke and Periwig on Dawson Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian-cabinet cocktail bar on three floors, the city's reference for a Dealer's Choice and a Manhattan.
DrinkDealers Choice cocktail
FoodBar snacks only
TipThree floors; the basement is the speakeasy room. Bookings essential Friday and Saturday; the ground-floor bar takes walk-ins.
The Bar With No Name above L'Gueuleton on Fade Street in Dublin 2, a hidden-entrance cocktail bar marked by a wooden snail, mismatched decaying furniture.
DrinkHouse Negroni
FoodTapas-style snacks
TipLook for the wooden snail beside L'Gueuleton; the entrance is unmarked. Walk-in for cocktails.
P. Mac's on Lower Stephen Street in Dublin 2, a candlelit craft-beer bar with twenty Irish and US taps, the southside's reference for an Irish craft IPA.
DrinkWhiplash IPA on tap
FoodBar snacks; food trucks outside
TipTwenty taps weekly rotation; ask the bar for the Whiplash, DOT or Trouble Brewing pour. Cash and card.
The Stag's Head on Dame Court in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub since 1860 with original mahogany and a stained-glass roof, the city's archetypal Dublin pub.
DrinkGuinness with an Irish stew
FoodIrish pub menu, full kitchen
TipTwo bars; the downstairs is the trad pub, the upstairs Parliament Hotel is the late bar. Irish stew at lunch is the value play.
Kehoe's on South Anne Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub of original mahogany snugs and an upstairs lounge that was once the publican's parlour.
DrinkGuinness
FoodToasties only
TipThree rooms; the snugs sit four. The upstairs is the parlour room; ask the bar staff to point you up.
The International Bar on Wicklow Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian saloon and the city's longest-running comedy room, the basement Cellar Bar pours cocktails.
DrinkOld Fashioned
FoodToasties; pizza upstairs
TipThree floors; basement cocktails, ground-floor bar, first-floor comedy nights from 21:00 most weeknights.
Davy Byrnes on Duke Street in Dublin 2, the moral pub since 1798, the Joycean Bloomsday stop for a Gorgonzola sandwich and a glass of Burgundy.
DrinkBurgundy with a Gorgonzola sandwich
FoodIrish seafood and pub plates
TipBloomsday on 16 June fills before 11:00; the back room sits forty. Seafood plates run all day.
Bunsen on Wexford Street in Dublin 2, the chef-built five-shop Dublin burger chain doing one menu only: beef, cheese, fries, milkshakes, the city's burger.
TryCheeseburger
TipOne menu, no specials; the smallest tables turn fastest. Late till midnight at Wexford Street.
George's Street Arcade in Dublin 2, the Victorian indoor market since 1881, a permanent thirty-stall market with lunch counters and the original Dublin Food.
TipHonest to Goodness counter sits at the Drury Street end; the Simon's Place cafe is the all-day lunch room.
Fab Food Trails' Dublin Tasting Trail starts at the Powerscourt Centre at 10:00 and works through the city's artisan producers, meeting the makers over tastings that are never revealed in advance.
TipMaximum twelve walkers; book the 10:00 Saturday slot for the busiest market day.
Secret Food Tours Dublin: a three-hour walk from Trinity College through Dublin's Georgian quarter with six tastings including Irish coffee, oysters, stew.
TipMaximum twelve walkers; the surprise final dish is part of the format. Meets at the Grattan statue on College Green.
Delicious Dublin Tours: Ketty Quigley's three-hour South Dublin walking food tour, small-group with six stops around George's Street and Wexford Street area.
TipMaximum eight walkers; the food writer Ketty Quigley leads most weekend tours personally. Book a month ahead in summer.
Irish Whiskey Museum on Grafton Street in Dublin 2, an hour-long museum walk and four-whiskey comparative tasting in the basement tasting room.
TipPremium tour at €35 includes a fifth whiskey and a souvenir glass. Daily 10:00-18:00 every half hour.
Dublin Craft Beer Tour: a three-hour walking craft beer tour crossing north and south Dublin pubs, six independent Irish craft beers in traditional pubs.
TipCapped at small groups; book ahead through the operator site. Combine with a meal at L. Mulligan Grocer afterwards.
Taste of Dublin on Merrion Square in Dublin, an annual June multi-cuisine open-air festival with chef demos, twenty Dublin restaurants and producer.
TipStandard entry from €19.50; the Häagen-Dazs VIP Suite at €52.50. Thursday afternoon is the calmest session.
Bloomsday Festival on 16 June in Dublin, the annual James Joyce Ulysses literary festival, with Edwardian breakfasts and the Gorgonzola sandwich at Davy.
TipDavy Byrnes serves the canonical Gorgonzola sandwich and Burgundy at lunch. James Joyce Centre runs the breakfast; book a week ahead.
Umi Falafel inside George's Street Arcade in Dublin 2, the vegetarian Lebanese counter doing the city's most credible falafel, freshly fried chickpeas.
TryFalafel wrap with toum
TipThree Dublin Umi locations; the Arcade branch is the south-city pick for a sub-€12 lunch. Counter and tables; takeaway runs fastest.
Bunsen on Wexford Street in Dublin 2, the chef-built five-shop Dublin burger chain with one menu only of beef, cheese and fries, the city's burger value.
TryQuarter-pound cheeseburger
TipOne menu only; the smallest tables turn fastest. Late till midnight at the Wexford Street flagship.
Cornucopia on Wicklow Street in Dublin 2, the family-run vegan and vegetarian wholefood restaurant since 1986, three floors of self-service counters.
TryVegan hot plate with three salads
TipWalk-in only; arrive before 12:30 for the upstairs room. The hot plate with three salads runs around €13. Closes 17:00 Sunday, 19:00 Monday to Wednesday.
Tang on Dawson Street in Dublin, an all-day Middle Eastern counter and basement, the city's most reliable weekend brunch and weekday lunch in one room.
OrderHalloumi wrap with house slaw and a turmeric latte.
TipWalk-in only at the upstairs counter; the basement table service room books online for weekend brunch.
Bunsen on Wexford Street in Dublin 2, the five-shop Dublin chef-built burger chain with one menu only of beef, cheese and fries, open to midnight Friday.
TryQuarter-pound cheeseburger
TipSmallest tables turn fastest at the late hour; closes midnight Friday and Saturday with the kitchen taking last orders at 23:30.
Wowburger downstairs at Mary's Bar and Hardware on Wicklow Street, a late-night burger counter serving WOW and Mini patties, the southside's late post-pub.
TryWOW cheeseburger
TipOpen seven days from noon until late; the WOW double patty with garlic-butter fries is the late-night order.
Yamamori on South Great George's Street in Dublin 2, the city's veteran Japanese ramen and sushi room running late on weekends, the south side's late-night.
TrySalmon donburi
TipFront room runs late on Friday and Saturday; the basement izakaya runs 23:30. Highballs at the back bar from €6.
Reyna on Dame Street in Dublin 2, the late-night Turkish charcoal grill and rotisserie doner counter, customisable kebab boxes the late southside crowd.
TryChicken doner kebab box
TipCounter and small table seating; build the box with lamb, chicken or falafel.
Zaytoon on Parliament Street in Dublin 2, a halal Persian kebab and rice room serving until 04:00 Friday and Saturday, the city's late-night kebab reference.
TryLamb kebab plate
TipCounter and table seating; the kebab plate runs €14. Open until 04:00 Friday and Saturday for the late post-pub crowd.
Bow Lane on Aungier Street in Dublin is the late cocktail bar and dance room with a DJ programme that runs disco and house until well after 02:00 most nights.
TipThe bottomless brunch crowd peaks at 15:00, walk in then for a table or after 21:00 once the dance floor takes over.
Lost Lane opened in 2019 off Grafton Street in Dublin with a 320 capacity live music room and a Friday and Saturday club programme anchored by the Mother residency.
TipUse the Adam Court alley entrance off Grafton Street, not the Porterhouse door. Friday club nights pre-sell, do not chance a cold walk-in.
The International Bar on Wicklow Street in Dublin hosts Ireland's oldest comedy club upstairs and a basement that runs blues and singer-songwriter nights cheaply.
TipThe Comedy Cellar Tuesday and Thursday nights are the originals, pay at the door and bring cash, the upstairs has no card machine.
Drury Buildings on Drury Street in Dublin runs four floors of bar and restaurant with a retractable-roof terrace, the Creative Quarter's regular outdoor cocktail room.
TipAsk for the upper terrace when you book, not the ground floor garden, the retractable roof closes when the rain starts and the view goes with it.
Sophie's at The Dean is the all-glass rooftop above Harcourt Street in Dublin, a 360-degree south-side view and a terrace bar running breakfast through cocktails.
TipBook direct on sophies.ie; the rooftop runs through all weathers under its glasshouse. The corner two-tops by the south-facing glass are the prize.
Peruke & Periwig on Dawson Street in Dublin runs three floors of theatrical cocktail rooms, the Teased & Twirled menu downstairs and Velvet Tresses upstairs.
TipThe first-floor Velvet Tresses room is the bookable cocktail experience, request the corner booth. The ground floor takes walk-ins for the standard menu.
Bonsai Bar on South Great George's Street in Dublin is Dylan McGrath's tiny Japanese-leaning cocktail room, with a tasting menu of bespoke drinks paired to sushi.
TipBookings only, the room holds 24 and the kitchen pairs sushi to the cocktails, ask for the eight-seat counter for the bartender's commentary.
The Black Door on Harcourt Street in Dublin is the Georgian basement lounge that runs over-25s only, with DJs Friday and Saturday and a no-sportswear door policy.
TipStrictly over 25s and the dress code is enforced, no trainers and no sportswear, book the bottle-service booth if you want a guaranteed table.
The George on South Great George's Street is Dublin's oldest gay bar, opened May 1985 eight years before decriminalisation. The central LGBTQ nightlife address.
TipSunday Shirley Temple Bar Bingo at 21:30 is the institution, get there by 20:00 for a seat. The back nightclub kicks in from 23:00 Thursday to Sunday.
Mother is Dublin's central queer club night, running every Saturday at Lost Lane off Grafton Street since 2019 with a disco and electro programme built on guest DJs.
TipPre-buy tickets, the door cuts off around 00:30 once capacity hits. Bank Holiday Sundays are the bigger nights, book early.
Grogan's Castle Lounge on South William Street has been Dublin's literary refuge since the 1970s when Paddy Kavanagh and Flann O'Brien drank here. No music, no TV.
TipOrder the cheese toastie, it is the entire kitchen and it is excellent. The art on the walls is for sale, ask the bar staff if you spot one.
The Long Hall on South Great George's Street in Dublin is the Victorian-refurbished 1881 pub backing onto Dublin Castle, with carved partitions and a long snug.
TipOrder a Guinness at the front bar, the back room with the chandeliers is the photograph everyone takes. No food, no music, no nonsense.
Doheny & Nesbitt on Baggot Street Lower in Dublin has been the Leinster House crowd's pub since 1828, Victorian partitions and the Doheny Snug at the front.
TipThe Doheny Snug at the front is the original confessional-style booth, ask the bar staff if it is free, it is the room you want for two.
Kehoe's on South Anne Street in Dublin has been pulling pints since 1803, with stained-glass doors, mahogany snugs and a 19th-century interior kept like a museum.
TipThe upstairs lounge is the old proprietor's living room kept as a bar, ask the staff if it is open, it is the prize seat.
Mulligan's on Poolbeg Street has poured pints in the same Dublin building since 1854, drank in by James Joyce and John F. Kennedy, an unspoiled Trinity-side dive.
TipOrder a stout at the back bar, the Joyce Room snug holds two at a push and is named for the Counterparts arm-wrestle scene set there.
The Stag's Head on Dame Court in Dublin is the 1895 A.J. McLoughlin Victorian pub James Joyce drank at, with stag-themed stained glass and carved wood snugs.
TipWalk down the alley off Dame Lane, the back entrance avoids the front pavement crowd. The upstairs cabaret hall hosts comedy most nights.
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Experience the culture and cuisine of Ireland's capital on this 2.5-hour gastronomical journey. Discover the best of Irish produce as you stroll through the city cente...
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Explore Dublin’s vibrant food scene on our guided tour. Sample traditional bites like Irish stew, Irish breakfast bap, and artisanal cheeses while learning about the c...
Guided tour · 3 hours
Explore the tastes of Dublin with an introduction to Irish food. Experience a 3-hour walking food tour of Dublin, and eat at award-winning eateries and food shops in t...