Seafood€€stoneybatter
Fish Shop on Benburb Street in Stoneybatter, Peter and Jumoke Hogan's sit-down chipper, the most refined fish and chips and oysters in Dublin.
Signature: Beer-battered fish and chips, Mackerel pâté, Daily oysters
Order: Beer-battered haddock with chips and the daily Galway Bay oysters by the half-dozen.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive 17:30 Thursday to Saturday to get a counter seat before the line forms.
Middle Eastern€€south-city-centre
Brother Hubbard South on Harrington Street in Dublin 8, Garrett FitzGerald and James Boland's sit-down Middle Eastern room and the all-day brunch reference.
Signature: Shakshuka, Lamb shawarma plate, Cardamom French toast
Order: The shakshuka at brunch, the lamb shawarma at lunch, with a cardamom-bun cinnamon roll to take away.
Tip: Walk-in only Saturday morning; the queue starts at 09:30. Bookings open Sunday to Friday on the website.
Modern European€€ranelagh-ballsbridge
Host on Ranelagh Village in Dublin 6, a small open-kitchen room of Mediterranean small plates, hand-rolled pasta and charcoal-grilled cuts, the southside's go-to sharing kitchen since 2017.
Signature: Fresh pasta, Mediterranean small plates, Charcoal-grilled meats
Order: A round of small plates, a hand-rolled pasta off the daily menu and a charcoal-grilled steak to share.
Tip: Communal seating; dinner Wednesday to Sunday with weekend lunch added. Bookings open sixty days out.
Indian€€south-city-centre
Pickle on Camden Street in Dublin, Sunil Ghai's modern Indian dining room running North Indian classics on Irish produce since 2015, tandoor-forward.
Signature: Lamb karahi, Black daal, Tandoori monkfish
Order: Lamb karahi, black daal, naan straight from the tandoor, and a glass of off-dry Riesling.
Tip: Tuesday to Sunday dinner; lunch Friday to Sunday only. Sit at the kitchen counter to watch the tandoor.
French bistro€€south-city-centre
Pichet on Trinity Street in Dublin, Stephen Gibson's red-canopied French bistro, Bib Gourmand since 2010 and the city's most reliable pre-theatre.
Signature: Steak frites, Tarte Tatin, Moules
Order: Steak frites with bearnaise, then the tarte Tatin to share with a glass of Sauternes.
Tip: Lunch at noon is the easy book; pre-theatre at 17:30 to 18:30 sets you up for the Gaiety. Avoid the back room for two.
Italian€€south-city-centre
Etto on Merrion Row in Dublin, Liz Matthews and Simon Barrett's Italian-leaning Bib Gourmand wine bar, the city's best by-the-glass list at the counter.
Signature: Mackerel crudo, Hand-rolled pasta, Cheese course
Order: The mackerel and whatever fresh pasta is on, with a Sicilian white from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Three counter seats by the open kitchen are first-come; the rest is reservation. Book through the website not OpenTable.