Where to sit, sip and slow down in Naples.
Coffee shops, bakeries with seats and the places Naples lingers in over a cortado.
Gran Caffè Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has poured espresso since 1860, the city's belle epoque salon where Oscar Wilde, Hemingway.
Signature drink: Espresso, cioccolata calda
Tip: Standing at the counter is the local way; sitting at a marble table runs three times the price. Try the cioccolata calda in winter.
Caffè Mexico in Naples' Piazza Dante has poured the city's strongest espresso since 1956, with five locations across town and the trademark pre-sweetened cup.
Signature drink: Espresso, caffè zuccherato
Tip: Order the caffè 'normale' (already sweetened) or 'amaro' (no sugar). Standing room only at the original Piazza Dante counter.
Gambrinus in Naples is the historic literary cafe with the city's first marble counter (1860). Located in Toledo. Order the espresso, sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella
Tip: Pay at the till first, then take the receipt to the bar. Counter price 1.50 euros vs 4 euros for a seated terrace table.
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house.
Signature drink: Espresso, ministeriale
Tip: Open daily 07:00-21:00. Ministeriale is 4 euros at the counter; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50.
Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (with the Vomero branch) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 07:00-21:00; closed Monday. The sfogliatella sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata.
Signature drink: Cioccolata calda, foresta
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta chocolate log retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche with cream filling) the dish that turned.
Signature drink: Espresso, fiocco di neve
Tip: Open daily 07:00-22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue can be 30 minutes on weekends.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. Located in Centro Storico.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30-19:30; closed Monday. The sfogliatella is 2 euros at the counter; cash preferred.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Caffè Kimbo in Naples is the city's biggest coffee roaster (1963) with branded espresso bars across the centre, the family-owned brand behind the dense.
Signature drink: Espresso Napoletano
Tip: Open daily 07:00-22:00. The espresso intense blend is the house signature; whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g.
Caffè Toraldo in Naples has roasted espresso blends since 1860, the third-oldest family roaster in the city, with the espresso bar on Via San Liborio.
Signature drink: Espresso, miscela 100% Arabica
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 07:00-19:30, closed Sunday. The 100 percent Arabica blend retails at 14 euros per 250g.
Il Vero Bar del Professore on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has poured the city's hazelnut-coffee invention since 1996, with Raffaele Ferrieri's caffè.
Signature drink: Caffè alla nocciola, espresso
Tip: Counter standing service. The caffè alla nocciola runs 2 euros 50; the kinder coffee is the dessert option.
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open daily 07:00-20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Caffè Mexico's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti runs the same pre-sweetened cup the Piazza Dante original made famous, with five branches across the city.
Signature drink: Espresso, caffè zuccherato
Tip: Counter only. Order 'normale' for pre-sweetened or 'amaro' for no sugar. Cup is one euro 20 at the counter.
Pasticceria Mennella on Via Scarlatti in Naples' Vomero is the family-run pasticceria-gelateria with 18 Campania branches, with the babà, the sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, gelato cone, babà
Tip: Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, weekends to 23:00. Counter and gelato window; the panettone is the December special.