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CaféToledo
Gran Caffè Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has poured espresso since 1860, the city's belle epoque salon where Oscar Wilde, Hemingway.
DrinkEspresso, cioccolata calda
TipStanding at the counter is the local way; sitting at a marble table runs three times the price. Try the cioccolata calda in winter.
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CaféCentro Storico
Caffè Mexico in Naples' Piazza Dante has poured the city's strongest espresso since 1956, with five locations across town and the trademark pre-sweetened cup.
DrinkEspresso, caffè zuccherato
TipOrder the caffè 'normale' (already sweetened) or 'amaro' (no sugar). Standing room only at the original Piazza Dante counter.
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CaféToledo
Gambrinus in Naples is the historic literary cafe with the city's first marble counter (1860). Located in Toledo. Order the espresso, sfogliatella.
DrinkEspresso, sfogliatella
TipPay at the till first, then take the receipt to the bar. Counter price 1.50 euros vs 4 euros for a seated terrace table.
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CaféCentro Storico
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house.
DrinkEspresso, ministeriale
TipOpen daily 07:00-21:00. Ministeriale is 4 euros at the counter; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50.
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CaféChiaia
Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (with the Vomero branch) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum.
DrinkEspresso, sfogliatella riccia
TipOpen Tue-Sun 07:00-21:00; closed Monday. The sfogliatella sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
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CaféToledo
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata.
DrinkCioccolata calda, foresta
TipEight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta chocolate log retails at 30 euros per kilo.
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CaféSanita
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche with cream filling) the dish that turned.
DrinkEspresso, fiocco di neve
TipOpen daily 07:00-22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue can be 30 minutes on weekends.
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CaféCentro Storico
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. Located in Centro Storico.
DrinkEspresso, sfogliatella riccia
TipOpen Tue-Sun 06:30-19:30; closed Monday. The sfogliatella is 2 euros at the counter; cash preferred.
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CaféVomero
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper.
DrinkEspresso, taralli, sfogliatella
TipMultiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
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CaféCentro Storico
Caffè Kimbo in Naples is the city's biggest coffee roaster (1963) with branded espresso bars across the centre, the family-owned brand behind the dense.
DrinkEspresso Napoletano
TipOpen daily 07:00-22:00. The espresso intense blend is the house signature; whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g.
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CaféCentro Storico
Caffè Toraldo in Naples has roasted espresso blends since 1860, the third-oldest family roaster in the city, with the espresso bar on Via San Liborio.
DrinkEspresso, miscela 100% Arabica
TipOpen Mon-Sat 07:00-19:30, closed Sunday. The 100 percent Arabica blend retails at 14 euros per 250g.
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CaféToledo
Il Vero Bar del Professore on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has poured the city's hazelnut-coffee invention since 1996, with Raffaele Ferrieri's caffè.
DrinkCaffè alla nocciola, espresso
TipCounter standing service. The caffè alla nocciola runs 2 euros 50; the kinder coffee is the dessert option.
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CaféToledo
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot.
DrinkEspresso, sfogliatella riccia
TipOpen daily 07:00-20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
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CaféVomero
Caffè Mexico's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti runs the same pre-sweetened cup the Piazza Dante original made famous, with five branches across the city.
DrinkEspresso, caffè zuccherato
TipCounter only. Order 'normale' for pre-sweetened or 'amaro' for no sugar. Cup is one euro 20 at the counter.
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CaféVomero
Pasticceria Mennella on Via Scarlatti in Naples' Vomero is the family-run pasticceria-gelateria with 18 Campania branches, with the babà, the sfogliatella.
DrinkEspresso, gelato cone, babà
TipOpen Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, weekends to 23:00. Counter and gelato window; the panettone is the December special.