Gambrinus in Naples is the historic literary cafe with the city's first marble counter (1860). Pair the espresso with a hot sfogliatella riccia and people-watch the Toledo crossing outside.
Tip: Pay at the till first, then take the receipt to the bar. Counter price 1.50 euros vs 4 euros for a seated terrace table.
Address: Via Chiaia 1/2, 80132 Napoli, Naples
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata calda the winter ritual.
Signature drink: Cioccolata calda, foresta
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta chocolate log retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house signature alongside the sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, ministeriale
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 21:00. Ministeriale is 4 euros at the counter; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50.
Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (with the Vomero branch) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the local order.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 07:00 to 21:00; closed Monday. The sfogliatella sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata calda the winter ritual.
Signature drink: Cioccolata calda, foresta
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta chocolate log retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche with cream filling) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit.
Signature drink: Espresso, fiocco di neve
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue can be 30 minutes on weekends.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30 to 19:30; closed Monday. The sfogliatella is 2 euros at the counter; cash preferred.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
