Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata calda the winter ritual.
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta chocolate log retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Address: Via Toledo 214, 80132 Napoli, Naples
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche with cream filling) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit.
Signature drink: Espresso, fiocco di neve
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue can be 30 minutes on weekends.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30 to 19:30; closed Monday. The sfogliatella is 2 euros at the counter; cash preferred.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Caffè Kimbo in Naples is the city's biggest coffee roaster (1963) with branded espresso bars across the centre, the family-owned brand behind the dense Neapolitan espresso served at every kiosk.
Signature drink: Espresso Napoletano
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The espresso intense blend is the house signature; whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g.
Caffè Toraldo in Naples has roasted espresso blends since 1860, the third-oldest family roaster in the city, with the espresso bar on Via San Liborio the historic counter.
Signature drink: Espresso, miscela 100% Arabica
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 07:00 to 19:30, closed Sunday. The 100 percent Arabica blend retails at 14 euros per 250g.
Caffè Moreno in Naples is the post-war coffee roaster (1970) with the Aroma Italiano blend on every Neapolitan supermarket shelf, plus branded espresso bars across the centre.
Signature drink: Espresso Aroma Italiano
Tip: Whole-bean Aroma Italiano retails at 11 euros 250g; the cafe counters serve espresso for 1 euro 20.
