Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (with the Vomero branch) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the local order.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 07:00 to 21:00; closed Monday. The sfogliatella sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
Address: Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 21, 80121 Napoli, Naples
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata calda the winter ritual.
Signature drink: Cioccolata calda, foresta
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta chocolate log retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche with cream filling) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit.
Signature drink: Espresso, fiocco di neve
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue can be 30 minutes on weekends.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30 to 19:30; closed Monday. The sfogliatella is 2 euros at the counter; cash preferred.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Caffè Kimbo in Naples is the city's biggest coffee roaster (1963) with branded espresso bars across the centre, the family-owned brand behind the dense Neapolitan espresso served at every kiosk.
Signature drink: Espresso Napoletano
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The espresso intense blend is the house signature; whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g.
Caffè Toraldo in Naples has roasted espresso blends since 1860, the third-oldest family roaster in the city, with the espresso bar on Via San Liborio the historic counter.
Signature drink: Espresso, miscela 100% Arabica
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 07:00 to 19:30, closed Sunday. The 100 percent Arabica blend retails at 14 euros per 250g.
