Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche with cream filling) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue can be 30 minutes on weekends.
Address: Via Arena della Sanità 24, 80137 Napoli, Naples
Attanasio near Naples Central Station has fried sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30 to 19:30; closed Monday. The sfogliatella is 2 euros at the counter; cash preferred.
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry chain founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with the city centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, taralli, sfogliatella
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Caffè Kimbo in Naples is the city's biggest coffee roaster (1963) with branded espresso bars across the centre, the family-owned brand behind the dense Neapolitan espresso served at every kiosk.
Signature drink: Espresso Napoletano
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The espresso intense blend is the house signature; whole-bean retail at 10 euros 250g.
Caffè Toraldo in Naples has roasted espresso blends since 1860, the third-oldest family roaster in the city, with the espresso bar on Via San Liborio the historic counter.
Signature drink: Espresso, miscela 100% Arabica
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 07:00 to 19:30, closed Sunday. The 100 percent Arabica blend retails at 14 euros per 250g.
Caffè Moreno in Naples is the post-war coffee roaster (1970) with the Aroma Italiano blend on every Neapolitan supermarket shelf, plus branded espresso bars across the centre.
Signature drink: Espresso Aroma Italiano
Tip: Whole-bean Aroma Italiano retails at 11 euros 250g; the cafe counters serve espresso for 1 euro 20.
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella riccia
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
