Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Address: Galleria Umberto I 66, 80132 Napoli, Naples
Gran Caffè Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has poured espresso since 1860, the city's belle epoque salon where Oscar Wilde, Hemingway and Mussolini all drank coffee.
Signature drink: Espresso, cioccolata calda
Tip: Standing at the counter is the local way; sitting at a marble table runs three times the price. Try the cioccolata calda in winter.
Gambrinus in Naples is the historic literary cafe with the city's first marble counter (1860). Pair the espresso with a hot sfogliatella riccia and people-watch the Toledo crossing outside.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella
Tip: Pay at the till first, then take the receipt to the bar. Counter price 1.50 euros vs 4 euros for a seated terrace table.
Caffè Mexico's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti runs the same pre-sweetened cup the Piazza Dante original made famous, with five branches across the city pouring the dense Neapolitan blend.
Signature drink: Espresso, caffè zuccherato
Tip: Counter only. Order 'normale' for pre-sweetened or 'amaro' for no sugar. Cup is one euro 20 at the counter.
Scaturchio's Vomero branch carries the same 1905 family carte as the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore mother shop, with the ministeriale and the babà au rhum the standout buys.
Signature drink: Espresso, ministeriale
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:30 at the Vomero branch. The Vomero terrace seating is the calmest in the chain.
Gran Caffè Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento in Naples has poured espresso since 1860, the city's belle epoque salon where Oscar Wilde, Hemingway and Mussolini all drank coffee.
Signature drink: Espresso, cioccolata calda
Tip: Standing at the counter is the local way; sitting at a marble table runs three times the price. Try the cioccolata calda in winter.
Caffè Mexico in Naples' Piazza Dante has poured the city's strongest espresso since 1956, with five locations across town and the trademark pre-sweetened cup the local rule.
Signature drink: Espresso, caffè zuccherato
Tip: Order the caffè 'normale' (already sweetened) or 'amaro' (no sugar). Standing room only at the original Piazza Dante counter.
Gambrinus in Naples is the historic literary cafe with the city's first marble counter (1860). Pair the espresso with a hot sfogliatella riccia and people-watch the Toledo crossing outside.
Signature drink: Espresso, sfogliatella
Tip: Pay at the till first, then take the receipt to the bar. Counter price 1.50 euros vs 4 euros for a seated terrace table.
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house signature alongside the sfogliatella.
Signature drink: Espresso, ministeriale
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 21:00. Ministeriale is 4 euros at the counter; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50.
