Bohemian sour-cream and mushroom soup: a velvety sour-cream and potato broth with caraway, dill, foraged mushrooms and a poached egg floating in the middle. Served with a chunk of dark rye on the side.

Kulajda comes from south Bohemia and the Sumava forest region, born from the foraging-and-dairy economy of the highlands. The classic version uses dried wild mushrooms in winter and fresh hribky (porcini) in autumn. The poached egg is the structural finish, breaking into the soup to enrich it further. Eska in Karlin runs a refined version with house-fermented cream; older pivnice serve the rustic version with a heavier dose of dill and vinegar. Always finished with a drizzle of vinegar (rather than lemon) to lift the cream.

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