Czech beef goulash with bread dumplings: slow-braised chunks of beef in a paprika gravy thickened with onions, sliced dumplings on the side to soak it all up.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
Czech goulash diverged from the Hungarian original in the 19th century, becoming a stew rather than a soup. Bohemian and Moravian pubs thickened the gravy with onions, served it with bread dumplings rather than pasta, and added marjoram. Every pivnice cooks its own version; U Fleku's has poured beside the dark Flek lager for a century.
Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs
U Fleku's eight beer halls stay loud until 23:00. The 1499 brewery's dark Flek 13 is the late-night pour; the kitchen runs full Czech mains until last orders at 22:30.
Try: Dark Flek 13, goulash, pork knee
Tip: Avoid the Friday and Saturday late shifts unless you booked a hall in advance.
Lokal Dlouhaaa stays open to 01:00 weekend nights, pouring tank Pilsner and serving classic Czech pub food until last orders. The 70-metre hall packs in the late-shift crowd Friday and Saturday.
Try: Tank Pilsner, Czech pub menu
Tip: Last food order is 30 minutes before close; the smazeny syr is the late dish.
U Medvidku has poured beer since 1466 in the same Old Town building. The microbrewery upstairs makes X-Beer 33, the strongest beer ever brewed in the Czech Republic at 12.6% ABV.
Tip: X-Beer 33 is a one-pour experience; do the standard 12-degree alongside.
Lokal Hamburk in Karlin is the river-harbour-themed Ambiente Lokal, the most neighbourhood-feeling of the chain. Tank Pilsner, big windows, the office crowd settles in evenings.
Signature drink: Tank Pilsner Urquell
Food: Czech pub menu
Tip: The terrace seats in summer go fast; book ahead Friday onward.
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