$$$$PizzeriaCarroll GardensWed-Mon 17:00-23:00, Tue closed
Mark Iacono's candlelit Carroll Gardens pizzeria in New York City turns out a coal-fired Brooklyn pie and a calzone, cash only, BYOB, no reservations.
OrderThe plain margherita, charred-crust slice.
TipWalk-in only. Put your name down at 17:30, then come back at 19:30; the wait is the room's whole social fabric.
$$$$American DinerLower East SideMon-Thu 08:00-23:00, Fri 08:00-23:30, Sat 00:00-23:59, Sun 00:00-23:00
Katz's on East Houston has cured, smoked and hand-sliced pastrami in New York City since 1888. The corner-of-the-counter sandwich is the deli's whole point.
OrderHand-cut pastrami on rye, mustard, half-sour pickle.
TipTip the slicer a dollar when you get your ticket; a thick fatty slice samples your way and the sandwich comes built right.
$$$$American DinerLower East SideDaily 08:00-16:00
Russ & Daughters has slung appetising on East Houston in New York City since 1914: hand-sliced smoked salmon, sturgeon, schmaltz herring and bagels to take.
OrderThe Classic: Gaspe Nova lox, cream cheese, tomato, onion, capers on a poppy bagel.
TipThe shop is for take-away. Sit down at Russ & Daughters Cafe around the corner on Orchard for table service.
$$$$PizzeriaGreenwich VillageSun-Thu 10:00-04:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-05:00
Pino Pozzuoli's Carmine Street counter has folded the canonical New York slice in New York City since 1975. Located in Greenwich Village. Priced at $.
OrderPlain cheese slice, fresh out of the oven.
TipOrder at the counter, eat standing at the window. Pepperoni runs out by 21:00; arrive earlier if it matters.
$$$$New AmericanFlatironMon-Thu 17:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-13:00, Sat-Sun 17:00-23:00
Daniel Humm three-Michelin-star Madison Square room serves an 8 to 10 course tasting in New York City. Order the the signature tasting; no a la carte.
OrderThe signature tasting; no a la carte.
TipThe bar room at EMP serves an abbreviated menu without a multi-week wait. Dress code: smart casual, jacket recommended.
$$$$Korean BbqFlatironSun-Wed 17:00-23:00, Thu-Sat 17:00-00:00
Simon Kim's Flatiron Korean steakhouse holds a Michelin star for tableside grilling in New York City. Priced at $$$$. Kitchen leans korean bbq.
OrderThe Butcher's Feast: four cuts, banchan, stews, egg souffle.
TipSit at the counter overlooking the grill for the full theatre. Wine list is unusually deep for a Korean room.
$$$$ItalianFlatironMon 17:00-23:00, Tue-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 17:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 11:30-14:30 & 17:00-23:00
Chef Stefano Secchi's Flatiron pasta room runs Emilian hand-rolled pastas in New York City: tortellini in brodo, anolini, gramigna. Michelin star since 2022.
OrderThe Tour of Emilia: five hand-rolled pastas, $98.
TipReservations open 28 days out on Resy. The bar runs walk-ins from 17:30 and serves the same pasta tour.
$$$$ChineseFlushingDaily 11:00-21:30
Nan Xiang on Prince Street in Flushing pleats soup dumplings to 18 folds in New York City. Pork, pork-and-crab, and a green truffle-pork basket on weekends.
OrderPork-and-crab xiao long bao, basket of eight.
TipTake the 7 train to Flushing-Main Street; the room runs 60-minute waits at lunch. No reservations; expect a buzzer.
$$$$ItalianWest VillageMon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00
Jody Williams and Rita Sodi's Grove Street West Village room serves Tuscan-leaning food in New York City. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans italian.
OrderInsalata verde, cacio e pepe, chocolate budino.
TipWalk in at 17:00 sharp for the first seating, or join the list around 20:30 for the second wave.
$$$$New AmericanNolitaMon-Thu 17:00-22:30, Fri-Sun 12:00-14:30 & 14:30-17:00 & 17:00-22:30
Ignacio Mattos's Houston Street Nolita room in New York City runs Mediterranean-leaning small plates. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans new american.
OrderBurrata with charred bread, beef tartare, ricotta dumplings.
TipThe counter is first-come; bar tables take walk-ins. Wine list is unusually long for a 60-seat room.
$$$$ItalianGreenwich VillageTue-Sun 11:30-14:00 & 17:00-23:30, Mon 17:00-23:30
Major Food Group's red-sauce Italian-American room on Thompson Street in New York City turns 1950s tableside service into theatre. Priced at $$$$.
OrderSpicy rigatoni vodka and the veal parmesan to share.
TipReservations are notorious; the bar runs walk-ins from 17:30 and serves the full menu. Don't skip the Caesar.
$$$$Spanish TapasGramercyDaily 12:00-23:00
Andy Nusser and Mario Batali's Gramercy tapas counter in New York City has held a Michelin star since 2009. Andalusian small plates, deep Spanish wine list.
OrderSea urchin panini and the bone marrow with oxtail.
TipCounter seats are easier than the dining room. The next-door Bar Jamon takes walk-ins for the same kitchen.
$$$$SteakhouseWilliamsburgMon-Thu 11:45-21:45, Fri-Sat 11:45-22:45, Sun 12:45-21:45
Peter Luger has dry-aged porterhouse on Broadway in Williamsburg, New York City since 1887. Cash or house card only, no reservations after 17:00 for walk-ins.
OrderPorterhouse for two, sliced and sauced at the table.
TipBook at least four weeks ahead for dinner. Lunch is the easier seat and the same meat.
$$$$VietnameseLower East SideWed-Mon 17:00-22:30, Tue closed
Chef Helen Nguyen's Orchard Street Vietnamese kitchen in New York City runs sharp central-Vietnamese cooking: bun bo Hue, com tam, banh khot in clay pots.
OrderBun bo Hue with extra cha lua.
TipLunch is the easy seat. Dinner books fast on weekends; Tuesday evenings are quiet and full menu still runs.
$$$$CantoneseChinatownDaily 11:00-22:00
Wu's Wonton King on East Broadway carves a $58 Peking duck table-side in New York City. Big rooms, Lazy Susan service, two-bird minimum on busy nights.
OrderPeking duck, three courses; wonton soup to start.
TipOrder the duck when you book; same-day requests are routinely refused. BYOB with a small corkage.
$$$$French BistroSohoMon-Fri 17:00-00:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-14:30 & 17:00-00:00
Raoul's has poured Cotes du Rhone and seared steak au poivre on Prince Street in SoHo, New York City since 1975. The bar burger is the off-menu cult order.
OrderSteak au poivre or the off-menu bar burger.
TipTen burgers a night, only at the bar, only after 19:30. Get there at 19:00 and put your name down with the bartender.
$$$$ItalianCarroll GardensSun-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00
The two Franks have served Brooklyn-Italian on Court Street in New York City since 2004: handmade pastas, escarole salad, sausage cavatelli in a garden out.
OrderCavatelli, hot sausage, brown butter and sage.
TipSit in the garden in warm weather. The meatballs over polenta is the second pick if cavatelli has sold out.
$$$$Jewish deliUpper East SideDaily 10:00-21:00
Pastrami Queen on Lexington serves kosher pastrami sandwiches on the Upper East Side of New York City. Modest counter, oversized sandwiches since 1956.
OrderHand-cut pastrami on rye with mustard.
TipCounter is tiny and seats fewer than a dozen; the takeaway line moves faster than the dine-in queue.
$$$$Sichuan ChineseChinatownMon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 12:00-22:00
Hwa Yuan on East Broadway brought Sichuan cooking to New York City Chinatown in 1968, closed in 1992, and was rebuilt by the founder's family in 2017.
OrderCold sesame noodles to start, General Tso's chicken in the founder's original sweet-and-savoury glaze.
TipThe cold sesame noodles claim to be the original American version; whether or not you buy that, order them.
$$$$ChineseMidtownDaily 12:00-22:00
Shun Lee Palace has served Cantonese and Hunan food on East 55th Street in New York City since 1971. T.T. Order the beggar's chicken, ordered 24 hours ahead.
OrderBeggar's chicken, ordered 24 hours ahead.
TipOrder the General Tso's the first time as a history lesson; on return visits skip it for the Hunan beef.