Modern Polish€€€powisle
Robert Trzopek's Bez Gwiazdek in Warsaw rebuilds regional Polish cooking the way you wish your grandmother had cooked it. The name (no stars) is a joke; the room earns them.
Signature: Regional Polish tasting, Pierogi reinterpretation
Order: Whatever regional set the kitchen is running this month. The chef plates one menu, no choice.
Tip: Open Wed-Fri evenings and Saturday from 16:00. Book three to four weeks ahead, it is a small room.
Modern European€€€€srodmiescie
Jacek Grochowina's Nolita has been in the Warsaw Michelin Guide since 2014. A small monochrome room with a glass-fronted kitchen and Polish-Mediterranean-Asian crossovers.
Signature: Five course tasting, Seven course tasting
Order: The seven-course tasting with wine pairing.
Tip: About 40 covers. Book two weeks ahead for weekend dinner.
Modern Polish€€€€srodmiescie
Marcin Przybysz's Epoka in Warsaw cooks elevated Polish food from a different historical century each course. The room sits inside the Raffles Europejski hotel.
Signature: Historical Polish tasting, Pierogi 1850
Order: The full multi-course history-of-Poland tasting menu, no a la carte.
Tip: Bookings open four weeks ahead. The wine pairing leans heavily on Polish and Hungarian producers.
Modern Polish wine bar€€€srodmiescie
Alewino in Warsaw started as a wine shop on Mokotowska and grew into a tucked-away bistro behind a courtyard gate. The wine list runs deep on younger Polish and natural producers.
Signature: Polish charcuterie plate, Pierogi with wild garlic
Order: The kitchen's set plate of the day with a glass of whatever the sommelier is excited about.
Tip: Look for the signpost by the gates as you arrive; the entrance is off the main street, easy to miss.
Steakhouse€€€€srodmiescie
Butchery & Wine in Warsaw was the first proper dry-ageing steakhouse in Poland when it opened in 2010. Glass-fronted ageing fridges, a 500C Bertha oven, and a Polish sommelier-champion wine list.
Signature: 28-day dry-aged ribeye, 90-day matured ribeye
Order: The 90-day matured ribeye with a Polish-aged-beef tartare to start.
Tip: Sundays closed. Lunch is the cheaper window for the dry-aged cuts.
Modern Polish€€€praga-polnoc
Zoni sits inside the old Koneser vodka factory in Warsaw's Praga district. Five surviving giant copper stills frame the dining room and the kitchen cooks contemporary Polish.
Signature: Beef zrazy, Ruthenian pierogi
Order: Whatever pierogi are on the seasonal menu and a flight of Koneser-distilled vodka.
Tip: The Praga Koneser complex also holds the Polish Vodka Museum; pair a tour with dinner.
Modern Polish€€€praga-polnoc
Mateusz Gessler's Warszawa Wschodnia in Warsaw runs 24 hours a day at the Soho Factory complex in Praga. French technique on Polish ingredients, with the bar wrapped around an open kitchen.
Signature: Beef tartare, Polish bistro classics
Order: Whatever cut the bar grill is searing tonight and the in-house bakery's sourdough.
Tip: Open round the clock, the rare late-late-night option for a proper dinner outside Old Town.
Traditional Polish€€€stare-miasto
Magda Gessler's Restauracja Polka in Warsaw sits in a Renaissance tenement steps from the Royal Castle. Seven flower-painted rooms, classical china, and the Polish home-cooking canon.
Signature: Bigos, Pierogi, Potato pancakes
Order: The bigos and the hand-rolled pierogi, with a shot of Polmos vodka.
Tip: Book a window seat on the Old Town side. It is touristy but earns the reputation.
Polish steakhouse€€€mokotow
Stary Dom in Warsaw is the steak and Polish-classics anchor of leafy Mokotow, an old-house dining room with linen tablecloths and a deep cellar list under the wood beams.
Signature: Beef tartare, Polish steaks
Order: The hand-cut tartare to start, then whatever steak the butcher's window has aged longest.
Tip: Sunday lunch is the easy booking window. The basement dining room is the better seat.
Modern Polish€€€srodmiescie
Dwie Trzecie in Warsaw runs a tight Polish carte across two rooms, restaurant and tapas bar. The kitchen leans on game and spring vegetables and the wine list reads Belgian-brewed-by-default.
Signature: Rabbit with peas, Asparagus and potato fondant
Order: The chef's set lunch with the kitchen's pickled-vegetable accent.
Tip: The sister site Jedna Trzecie next door is a Belgian beer cellar; do dinner here and one trappist after.
Mediterranean European€€srodmiescie
Aioli on Swietokrzyska is the breakfast-through-evening Mediterranean canteen that Warsaw uses for the in-between meals: late breakfast, working lunch, early drinks before dinner elsewhere.
Signature: Breakfast plate, Italian pasta
Order: The shakshuka at breakfast or the daily pasta at lunch.
Tip: The all-day kitchen and the live DJ slot after 21:00 make it the rare both-and room.
Modern Polish€€€powisle
Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedz in Warsaw, the Green Bear, hides in Beyer Park between Powisle and the centre. Small dining room, chalkboard menu, foraged-vegetable kitchen.
Signature: Beef cheek, Foraged-vegetable plates
Order: Whatever foraged-mushroom dish is on, with a glass of Hungarian Furmint.
Tip: Entry by car from Kruczkowskiego on the Powisle side. Walk-up from Smolna through the park.
Middle Eastern vegan€€srodmiescie
Tel Aviv Urban Food on Poznanska in Warsaw opened in 2010 as the city's first strictly plant-based room. Hummus, falafel, pita and shakshuka now run across three locations.
Signature: Hummus, Falafel pita, Shakshuka
Order: The hummus mushabbaha with extra warm pita and a side of pickled vegetables.
Tip: Walk-in friendly at lunch. Dinner Friday-Saturday is the harder slot.
Wine bar restaurant€€€wola
Mielzynski on Burakowska in Warsaw sits inside the old Lace Factory at the corner of Srodmiescie, Zoliborz and Wola. A wine merchant first, a kitchen second, both done seriously.
Signature: Polish charcuterie, Cheese board
Order: The charcuterie and cheese board, chosen by whoever is pouring tonight.
Tip: The shelves are the wine list. Pick a bottle off them and pay corkage that is lower than a list mark-up.