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Modern Polish
Bez Gwiazdek in Powisle is Robert Trzopeks Wislana room where the ex-Noma chef plates one set Polish regional menu three nights a week, three weeks ahead.
Why locals goAn ex-Noma, ex-El Bulli chef cooks one set Polish menu, three nights a week, in a Powisle room locals book three weeks ahead and tourists never find.
TipBookings open Wednesday morning for three weeks out, online only.
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Modern Polish
Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedz hides inside Beyer Park between Powisle and Smolna, with a chalkboard of foraged-mushroom and game plates from a small kitchen.
Why locals goHidden inside Beyer Park between Powisle and Smolna with a chalkboard menu of foraged-mushroom and game plates from a small kitchen.
TipWalk in from the Smolna side; the car entrance from Kruczkowskiego is for deliveries.
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Wine bar
Mielzynski Wine Bar sits inside the old Lace Factory courtyard on Burakowska, far off the Srodmiescie grid where only sommeliers and regulars find it.
Why locals goA wine shop and bar inside the old Lace Factory courtyard on Burakowska, far enough off the Srodmiescie grid that only sommeliers and regulars find it.
TipPick a bottle off the shelves and pay corkage; cheaper than ordering from a list.
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Cocktail bar
El Koktel is a Warsaw buzz-to-enter basement bar with emerald walls and bartender-made gin, a 50-Best Discovery listing barely a block off Mazowiecka street.
Why locals goA buzz-to-enter basement bar with emerald walls and bartender-made gin, a 50-Best Discovery listing barely a block off Mazowiecka but invisible from the street.
TipRing the buzzer on the street to be let in. No reservations Tuesday-Thursday.
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Modern Polish
Pyzy, Flaki Gorace! is the Praga dumpling room serving pyzy in jam jars under fluorescent strips for under 20 zl, working-class Polish across the Vistula.
Why locals goThe Praga pyzy room serves dumplings in jam jars under fluorescent strips for under 20 zl.
TipCash works fine. The flaki tripe soup is the second-order if pyzy is not enough.
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Wine bar
Kieliszki na Proznej sits on the surviving pre-war fragment of Prozna street, a Michelin Guide wine bar with a 200-plus list few tourists ever reach.
Why locals goOn the surviving pre-war fragment of Prozna street between Plac Grzybowski and Marszalkowska, a Michelin-Guide wine bar with a 200-plus list almost no tourist reaches.
TipBook the bar seat; the sommelier pours from glass, half-bottle and full at your pace.